Jerry...

try easing up on the pressure you put on the back end of the board as you pass over the cutter head. I made up a push stick for the back that is about 14"s long. This in turn redistributed more of the downward force I was applying. Now its more like pushing the board along the top of the jointer as opposed to pushing the board down into the jointer..

HTH..

bill

 

Dealing with snipe on a planer / jointer / thicknesser - YouTube
First part of this YouTube explains it.
Raise your outfeed slightly.

 

Bill,
Thanks for the tip, I added to my post after phoning Grizzly about the snipe and was informed that it is normal. So I guess that I have the setting pretty close. By the way, don't know if you noticed or not but I had the model number for the jointer wrong in the original post, had it mixed up with the new band saw, you probably didn't notice it.

Jerry

 

Ralph, after I wrote the post I had to go to town and on the way I was thinking about that snipe and thought of just what you told me to do, it makes sense. I also phoned Grizzly and ask them and was told that the snipe was normal, but I will try what you are telling me to do, seems like it will work, i'll let you know what happens.

I looked at Steve's demo, sure confirms what I was thinking and what you told me, also the tip using the planer was worth watching too. I needed the help with the planer by the way, like so many things i life, little things are important aren't they.

I think that the Tech Support With Grizzly ought to watch Steve's demo. By theway I told the guy at Grizzly about Snodgrasse's demo on You Tube about setting up a band saw, he seemed to be interested in it. Makes you wonder doesn't it. Oh yes, by the way, the tech was real glad that I hadn't messed with the factory setting on the jointer, so am I.



Jerry

 

I was on a break at work during my last post. I had some snipe.
Just got home and made a more fine tune adjustment.

No snipe.

That is why it's called a snipe hunt.
There's not supposed to be any to catch.

 

I was able to make the adjustment to eliminate the snipe too, sure works good. I set the outfeed table high enough so that the work piece bumped it when it was fed into the cutters, then lowered the table just enough so that the work piece would just barely clear and feed without any bumping, this was a real fine adjustment, if the table was even a hair to low I would get that snipe, but when adjusted correctly all went well, both for and edge cut as well as face cut. I'm happy.

Jerry

Jerry

 

I set the outfeed table high enough so that the work piece bumped it when it was fed into the cutters, then lowered the table just enough so that the work piece would just barely clear and feed without any bumping, this was a real fine adjustment, if the table was even a hair to low I would get that snipe, but when adjusted correctly all went well, both for and edge cut as well as face cut. I'm happy.

Jerry

Jerry

The vid shows setting the outfeed just high enough that manually rotating the cutter head moves the test piece of wood a minimal distance (1/4" or less). Has nothing to do with "bumping" against the outfeed table. After that adjustment, the infeed table is lowered as determined by the desired amount of wood to remove.

 

Ralph,
I know what the video shows and of course I agree with what Steve is saying, I'm just saying that I accomplished the same end result doing it another way. I would not suggest that anybody else try to do it the way that I did. As long as the results are satisfactory, it doesn't make any difference how you came to those results. I think that the reason that I did it the way that I did is that intially I was bumping the board against the outfee table and when I fixed that I then had to deal with the resulting snipe so some place between where I had been and where I was with the snipe was where I wanted to be soooo..... I just compromised and found the sweet spot that is working for me. I have alway been accused wanted to reinvent the wheel, guess that it is just a character flaw that I have to deal with.

All jokes aside, I do appreciate all of your replys and/or comments about our joint concerns with wood working, keep them coming.

Jerry

 

Jerry, did you have the jointer on when you did the bump/no bump testing? If you did then I understand how that would work. Move wood across the moving cutter heads until you get to the outfeed that is set a little high. Turn off machine. Then move wood right and left while adjusting the outfeed slightly down and up until perfection (no bump).

Yes, that would work.

 

Ralph, yep that's what I did, and the jointer was turned on, but the final set of the setting is still checking to be sure that there is no snipe. The problem with bump/no bump approach is that if the outfeed table is such that you don't get the bump, you can still be to low and opps, you have snipe. What ever, I am satisfied that the jointer is set up correctly. Like any tool, it only as is supposed to work when it is in proper adjustment.

Jerry

 

Jerry,

It looks like you're well on your way to becoming the jointer tuning expert! I'm glad you're happy with your Grizzly purchase. I've been pleasantly surprised by the higher end Grizzly tools, and by the quality of their manuals.

Congrats on your efforts to get your machine dialed in. If you've got it on a mobile base, don't make my mistake and use the infeed/outfeed tables as handles to move the machine around the shop. That can knock it out of alignment if you're not careful.

 

don't use the infeed/outfeed tables as handles to move the machine around the shop. That can knock it out of alignment if you're not careful.

Good tip!!

 

Doug, thanks for the tip, luckily I have been pushing the jointer around with my hands on the base so I may have inevertenly gotten lucky by not doing what you warned me of.

Thanks Again,
Jerry