looking good, Angie

 

You did a good job ,Angie, but I am not quite sure how you use it. But the jig looks great.

I have been using the Rockler one that is a block of metal where you drill holes and use ribbed tenons. I like floating tenons they work so good.

Herb

 

Thanks for the comments guys.

You did a good job ,Angie, but I am not quite sure how you use it. But the jig looks great........

@Herb Stoops

In the first picture you can see the pine clamped at the center line. The router sits over it using an edge-guide along the back of the jig. I set the router bit centered across the pine, then move the router to one end of travel, and set the end stop up against the edge-guide rods (locked down by the red knobs). Then I move the router to the other end of travel and set that end stop. I also set the depth to half thickness of the wood width.

Then it's a case of plunge 4mm, rout to other end, plunge another 4mm, rout to other end.... and repeat until I hit the depth stop.

I have a 10mm pocket hole bit from wealdon tool co. which can plunge up to about 55mm, and I've been mortising about 35 to 40mm deep.

Then I gotta make the tenons.....

Using an old bed support plank which was no good for anything else I thicknessed it down to 10mm thick as tenon stock.

I count how many tenons I need for the current job and cut a length of the tenon stock slightly longer than that required for all of them. The tenon stock is then ripped to the same width as the mortise length.

Then I set up a 10mm bead bit and round over both edges.

Once the whole length is prepared I just cut it to length as required.

 

Nice job.

 

Hi Angie

Makes you wonder why some woodworkers will spend lots of money on commercial jigs. Well done! You are guiding the router with a single fence. The router can't veer forward (toward the operator) but it can veer backward. I use a second fence but your clamping mechanism would get in the way. Add a strip of wood to your fence and fashion a groove that it can run in with a minimum of play. The router can now only move left-right:no backwards movement.

Denis Lock "Routing with Denis"

 

Makes you wonder why some woodworkers will spend lots of money on commercial jigs. Well done!

Thanks Denis, praise from yourself means a lot.

You are guiding the router with a single fence. The router can't veer forward (toward the operator) but it can veer backward. I use a second fence but your clamping mechanism would get in the way. Add a strip of wood to your fence and fashion a groove that it can run in with a minimum of play. The router can now only move left-right:no backwards movement.

I agree, although I haven't had a jump from the router since the first test mortise, but I am going to add the thin strip to run in a channel in the future. At the moment I put stress on the jig by putting pressure from the rear of the jig towards the front to stop the router running away, but a guide channel would definately mean avoiding that problem.

 

This looks like a good idea. At this point, I'm not anywhere near using tenon joinery, but when I'm ready, I think the loose tenons are the way to go. I'm not grasping how the jig works or is made, and am wondering if you could post the link to where you found the design.

By the way, the bottle caps are a good idea. I just made some round knobs, and will use them for a better grip. Thanks. Jim

 

This looks like a good idea. At this point, I'm not anywhere near using tenon joinery, but when I'm ready, I think the loose tenons are the way to go. I'm not grasping how the jig works or is made, and am wondering if you could post the link to where you found the design.

See post 9 above for link to a video of another version of the same jig.

By the way, the bottle caps are a good idea. I just made some round knobs, and will use them for a better grip.

I would make some if I was short of bottle tops but I have a full ice cream container full as my S/O get's through a lot

 

Very nice!

 

Angie, congrats, well done. :smile:

 

do you happen to remember what the Google search was? Thanks

 

Thanks guys.


@jaody

Sooooo many images
Loose tenon mortising jig

 

Hi Angie, thanks for showing my version.

I would suggest that you make a fence so that the router guide will not move back and spoil the cut. This was mentioned in a previous post..

This video from Bill Hylton was the inspiration and shows better detail:

https://youtu.be/zORuOdjasMo?list=PL03A9A5657505D69D

 

That's another video I looked at but lumber that size here qould cost a fortune which is why I used two layers of MDF for the main frame. I think I've worn that video out the times I watched it :smile:

 

thank you. I wasn't sure if the stops use the rails from the guise of the router or the router itself. .

The only mortising jig I made in the past, was for my router table where the router is from above.

 

thank you. I wasn't sure if the stops use the rails from the guise of the router or the router itself. .

The rods from the router to the guide are what the stops butt up against Hentie. :yes4:

 

I made the Dan Phalen mortise jig which is similar to yours but retains the router in a groove.

Peter

 

I made the Dan Phalen mortise jig which is similar to yours but retains the router in a groove.

That's another version I looked at Peter, but I didn't like the loss of 12mm depth due to the top thickness. It would have been ok with the 10mm pocket hole bit, as that has a long shank, but the 6mm bit is a lot shorter to to it's small diameter.