I have a 1/4" spiral upcut bit I use for mortising with my plunge router but find it's lacking in cutting length, especially when using a jig (losing 1/2" for the thickness of the plywood used for the jig). I've been searching all the router bit catalogs to no avail, they all seem to be about like my existing Whiteside bit, 1" cutting length, 2 1/2" overall. Does anyone have a source for a spiral upcut bit with a longer shank if not longer cutting depth?
toolmanlh
Need longer 1/4" spiral upcut bit
I haven't even seen really long ones in half inch. I did some a couple years ago and switch to a stagger tooth I have after the spiral. The stagger tooth is a lot longer but it didn't drill anywhere close to as well as the spiral. I should have drilled out most of the waste first with an auger bit and just used the stagger tooth to finish with.
I thought about the thinner material but I already had to grind the guide bushing down to clear the 1/2" material. I suspect they don't make them in longer lengths for a reason. Those solid carbide bits can be brittle.
I managed to get my mortises cut. I'll just have to trim my tenons back to the length of the depth of my mortise. It's frustrating though, just another 1/2" would make a big difference.
I managed to get my mortises cut. I'll just have to trim my tenons back to the length of the depth of my mortise. It's frustrating though, just another 1/2" would make a big difference.
I know what you mean about those fragile bits. Have a 3/8ths down spiral bit with a chunk out of it from making the mistake of lifting the thing out of my DadoWiz while the bit was still running. ZzzzzzzT! and the tip was gone. Ah well, there went another 40 bucks. Chewed a nice pattern in the aluminum though.
Now that I think about it, with at least a 1/2" lost in the collet, another 5/8 to 3/4 for the collet itself and then the 1/2" for the plywood jig, even a 3" bit doesn't have much cutting length left. May need to rethink my setup. ��
You can make the deepest 1/4" mortises with a mortiser or mortising attachment for a drill press. That's only easy if you are mortising into the side of something. Of course the old standby method is to go as deep as you can with the spiral and then, using the sides of that mortise for a guide, deepen the hole with a drill bit and then chisel the rest of the waste out.
It's not so much the depth of cut, as you only want to remove a little With each pass, but having the extra length on the shank would be very helpful.
We have a mortiser at work but I want to work with what I have at home.
We recently had to do a bread board edge on a custom table that required deep mortises beyond the 6 1/2" capacity of our mortiser. Drill press and chisel work.
We have a mortiser at work but I want to work with what I have at home.
We recently had to do a bread board edge on a custom table that required deep mortises beyond the 6 1/2" capacity of our mortiser. Drill press and chisel work.
Attachments
Not cheap but if you are looking for a deep mortiser here's one: https://www.amazon.ca/Makita-7104L-...Y6Q&tag=duc12-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0002HC2VQ These are mostly for log house building so you would probably want to clean the sides up with a chisel.
In the past I have used our lock mortiser for deep mortises and it worked great. But again, you are limited on size of bits. It just seems like there is a real limitation for deep 1/4" mortises with a router.
Attachments
One of the other ways to do the breadboard end would be to make a sandwich instead of using a piece of solid wood on the end. You could make it interesting by using a different colored wood for the core than the top and bottom pieces which would also hide the glue joint. Change the problem into a "design opportunity" as Harry likes to call his work arounds when things don't go as planned.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
