Nick
I like the Timberwolf blades. Woodcraft carries them and the prices range from 28 - 40 dollars if I remember correctly. They last pretty well for me, just remember to release the tension when not in use. A friend of mine likes the Olsen line, although I don't think they are as good as the timberwolfs. I'm sure other members will chime in on this.

 

Thank you, Wayne...can you comment on TPI...? for general use on 1/2 and 3/4 wood...? And am I right to go with 3 or 4 TPI for resaw...? I'm thinking the most I'll be resawing for a while is cutting down 3/4's for project wood...

 

Congratulations on the bandsaw Nick... very nice saw!

 

Thank you, Jim...I'll be having some fun soon I'm sure...and I'm guessing another reason for more posts

 

Nick, I almost bought that saw, it was my first choice until I found the killer deal offered on the Steel City 14" Deluxe model. Watch the band saw adjustment video in the sticky thread, I learned a great deal from it. I bought a Timberwolf blade for resawing, No complaints so far. I am planning on adding a Carter stabilizer for use with narrow blades as suggested in the video. Here is a link to the item: Steel City 14" by Carter Products

 

Thank you, Mike...I remember your earlier recommendation for the Steel City Deluxe but couldn't pass up the deal on the Rikon...about $4 BUC's (Bandsaw Unit of Currency = $100). I have watched videos on the Carter guide and it is really impressive...imagine, just have the fence within 1/4" and it cuts straight...MAGIC (FM?)

I have a bunch of scrap that I'm going to "repurpose"... First use will be a box for my sextant...

toys, what would we do without 'em

 

I have the same saw and use Timberwolf but in the 1/2" size not the 3/4. For resawing you want a thick blade I don't remember the thickness but if you call them they can set you straight. The Woodcraft near me didn't carry the thicker blade so I went with what they had but wish I had waited. Interesting suggestion about the bearing I haven't noticed any problem with the set up as it is what would turning the bearing do besides adding a bit more distance on the back side? One thing to check every now and then is the belt tightness. I thought I had a motor problem not realizing that the knob on the base was for tightening and loosing the belt. I had turned it and not seeing anything happening walked away from it. After experiencing a problem I looked at the owners manual and realized I had loosened the tension.

 

Thank you, Art...the plastic sleeve and collar in the bearing looks like it sleeves the smaller screw...by putting the bigger and plastic surface on the inside it allows for SLIGHT loosening of the screw (about 1/4 turn) for adjustment and does not allow the bearing to twist when the screw is otherwise loose. (...as a possible analogy, using a short fence versus a taller one ?...) The plastic also allows for smoother movement between the surfaces and so the bearing stays where it was adjusted when tightened. I had initially tried a slightly bigger diameter washer but was still binding between the mount and the bearing. I used the technique in the sticky video and it worked like a charm. It is possible that I may have taken care of a different problem and not recognized it, i.e., bad washer, big thumbs, etc... I have looked at the carter guide and it is on my list. Right now I am concentrating on which blades to buy...Timberwolf seems to be on the top of my list (PC 3/4x.032 and 1/4x.025) I thought I was going to buy a 1/2 and 3/4 but videos and reviews is now pointing me to the 1/4. I'm trying not to buy too many initially...I'm sure I will wind up with a collection one of these days...

 

So let me see if I'm getting it straight...I am on the PS Wood site and it looks like if I want to cut hardwood, softwood and plywood, MDF, composite I would get the 1/4 x 8 x 0.025 and it would let me cut the typical sizes of wood. I would use this as my "one blade does it all" blade...? (except for resaw)... I guess I need to pick PC/RK...? Or did I understand the site and 1/4 automatically gets me the RK...? (So much to learn, so little time...)

 

...just got my 1/2" Wood Slicer from Highland...now I'm anxious to make some sawdust...YAHOOO-OOO...

 

The 3/4" blade can't be properly tensioned on a 14" band saw. I am using 1/2" & 3/4" Haltbar blades for my resaw job. For your band saw , 1/2" is pretty good.

 

"The 3/4" blade can't be properly tensioned on a 14" band saw"

Thank you, Jack...can you elaborate a bit on tensioning 3/4" blade...? Is that for all 14's in general or my Rikon...? Specs say 3/4" blade is good and there is plenty of tensioning left on the hardware.

Signed, concerned...

Thanks, Nick

 

After posting, reading, listening and looking I finally settled on a Rikon 10-325 Deluxe 14 inch. It has a 1 1/2 hp motor, 2 speeds, up to 3/4 in blade, 13+ resaw and other "workhorse" stuff.

Heck of a saw Nick... hopefully I can settle on that bandsaw one glorious day!

 

Excellent point...settle was definitely wrong choice for my decision...a 2x4 across the noggin is always a good thing...

 

Thanks for posting, Nick. My 10-325 arrived today (I "settled", too!), replacing a smaller benchtop that has outlasted its usefulness. I hope to have some time this weekend to set it up. Any other setup tips or learnings in your first few weeks that might make things easier for me? Appreciate your bearing idea, but had already ordered the Carters due to prior experience.

 

Good luck to you also...

The bearing collar idea really made a huge difference. I spoke with one of Rikon's engineers and after some discussion he agreed to look at it. He thinks they will put in two collars to accommodate the surface area for both sides of bearing. You might find that the guide bar might not come down parallel to the blade...this is easily adjustable and can call me or Rikon for simple adjustment. They do not agree with Alex on teeth riding in center of wheel and prefer the entire blade centered on tire. Ignore where blade rides on lower wheel. All the rest of tuning per Alex. Stock tension was too tight...stock blade worked better with less tension. I put on Woodslicer blade (1/2 x 3/4tpi) and its like nite and day. Stock guides allow movement on all axes so I am very happy with them. I worked for a butcher for some time and find this saw as comfortable as his high-priced baby. I put a " don't forget blade de-tensin sign on power switch as I use that.

Best of luck...let's keep comparing notes...

Nick

 

Thanks, Nick. Got your PM, but don't have enough posts to reply via PM. Will let you know if I run into issues during setup... and will post back afterward to compare notes.

 

Got it together today, though took a bit longer than expected - more due to the fact that I had to start and stop a lot due to other duties than any major challenges. I'd estimate 4 solid hours, working alone, including changing the guides (Carter) and blade. The biggest pain in the arse was threading washers and nuts on the stand - I never considered my hands all that big, but needed pixie hands to get in some of those tight spaces. Finally got it, though. The only flaw was a damaged tension guide that threw me off until I noticed its condition (though not before a few choice words as I struggled with tension and tracking). Once I figured that out, I tensionwd/tuned it by ear, bent the guide back into shape, and figured out how to realign it. From there tracking and guide adjustment was a piece of cake.
First impression is overall very good, though only limited sawing so far (a few test pieces).

 

Good to hear...sorry you couldn't have the fun of total focus on assembly and tuning...I am really enjoying mine and I'm sure you will too...I have big thumbs and found the same problem with the nuts and bolts on the stand. I didn't like the 1/4" nuts and bolts for the saw to base so I slapped in some 3/8's...couldn't see using 5/16 for other stuff and then 1/4 for the body... Glad you got your guide straightened out...Nick

Don't forget to clean off the table and wax it up real good...sides too...

Best of luck...Nick

 

After suffering the same problem trying to get mounted I realized that the bolts could have just as easily (or should I say easier)gone from the top down instead of the bottom up.