It really depends on the type of router table you have and how accessible the router is when it is in the table. My first router table I built was simply a table on legs, and I could quickly and easily get to from under the table. My new router table is over a full cabinet, but I put a lift in place for that. Also many tables use a router plate that you can easily lift the router out of the table, which can help with height adjustment, as will as bit changes.

 

Brewermoe; a lot of the newer routers have above table ht. adjustment built in. I recently bought a Bosch 1617EVS (fixed base) for exactly that reason. The 1617EVSPK come s complete with both the fixed base and a plunge base.
If you're doing this on a commercial basis...time is money, and the tools are a Tax write-off, plus there's a 3yr warranty. Wouldn't even think about buying used, in fact I'd also buy a back up unit.
https://www.kmstools.com/bosch-fixed-plunge-base-router-kit-93277
http://www.amazon.ca/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD
RONA - Search Results
https://www.canadianwoodworker.com/webstore/wecs.php?store=&action=category_view&target=4200
So, up here, that's the normal pricing, but shop around; I'd be surprised if you couldn't find the combo pkg. on sale somewhere for around $269.

 

I have seen the plate and router just lifted out of the table, adjusted, locked and placed back in the table...

Simple and easy (as shown on The Router Workshop...They used an Hitachi 12**).

 

Aw, the good old days. Before the lift devices were invented we all either adjusted from underneath or lifted router and plate out and did it on top of the table. The lifts are a great and convenient device but not critical to router table use.

 

I've had both and find above table adjustment to be far superior.

Reaching under to adjust is a pain as it makes getting the right height tricky not mention hard on the knees. Pulling router and plate out gets old fast especially if you need to use shims to keep the plate tight.

There are plans for router lifts available. If I was looking to save money, I'd go that direction.

 

I bought a makita RP 1802XK, it has a threaded section so you can just drill a hole in the router plate and put a long screw through (phillips head screw supplied) to adjust the height.
I didnt think a phillips head screw would be all that easy to access once filled up with sawdust, so made a threaded stud with a 10mm nut sunk into the table. Now i can adjust the height using a socket and speed brace, standing at the table, extremely quickly.

 

Even with the routers with above table adjustments (mines is a Rigid), you still have to reach under to release and re-tighten the clamp, just to let you know. If you want complete above table adjustment, as some have stated above, go with a lift.

 

I dont have any other make, so cant comment on them, but my Makita is adjusted ABOVE the table. I have a 10mm nut recessed into the kreg router plate.
I use a 1/4 drive socket and speed brace to adjust up and down.
I dont have to reach under the table for anything.

 

With the routers I have, and several tables that I have built, I can adjust the bit height from above the table (Bosch 1617 and Triton 3 1/4hp), or from underneath. Both routers have the clamp to secure it in position so I still reach underneath the table. I have done this so many times, it is second nature to me. I don't need to bend over or crouch to make adjustments. I can feel my way around. Of course, the router isn't running when I do that.

I think I am lucky with the way I built the last table because the adjustments are easy to get to. I will say this, I like the fact I can raise the bit above the table on the Triton to change bits.

Hope this info is helpful.
Mike

 

Pics ... ? (please!):smile:

 

I agree with Lee. I have the Porter Cable 895PK (combo package) and I must reach under the table to open the clamp, then adjust height, then close the clamp.

Mine is mounted in a Bosch RA1171 Cabinet Style Router Table and unfortunately, the "above the table" adjustment hole is not aligned with the router. I would have to re-drill a hole in the aluminum plate but it looks a bit dicey so I haven't tried to do it yet.

 

I'm not confident enough to do without a lock. One of the reasons I didn't build my own lift is I couldn't see how to do an above table lock. I really love my JessEm MRL-II - everything is done above the table. That makes using a table mounted router a breeze! I'll never go back to anything less.

Bob, what about it dropping down due to vibration? I wouldn't worry about large movements but even 1/32" is enough to make for visible gaps or uneven joints.

 

All I can say is what I've experienced. the router is heavy and the springs are pushing against the nut, which is against the aluminium base plate.
I cant picture a scenario that would make enough vibration to affect the setting.
I recently routed 30 heart shapes for an arts and crafts person. Three sized templates, 8", 6" and 5", 10 of each, attached to the wood with double sided tape, shapes roughly cut on a bandsaw.
All 30 hearts routed perfectly, some parts were thicker than the cutting bit..
the only possible problem I could see would be if using a downwards cutting spiral bit, then that would put an upwards force on the router. But I dont have any of these, and so have no problem with my layout.

 

the router is heavy and the springs are pushing against the nut

Springs? What kind of base are you using with your router? The Bosch doesn't have springs of any kind in the fixed base so that has me confused.

 

The makita is model number RP 1810 XK, its a large, heavy plunge router designed to be used on its own, or under a table.
So far, its performed faultlessly in the table.

 

The plunge part makes sense. Thanks.

On my Triton, the instructions said to remove the spring, which I did. As I said, the Bosch fixed base doesn't have springs. I use the plunge base for hand held operations.

 

good grief, after all these years, I've finally met the man who reads the instructions!
:surprise::wink:

 

Mike; Bob had mentioned earlier, "I bought a makita RP 1802XK"...
I think that's the one he's referring to(?).