At first glance the profile and measurements look right. I haven't heard of that brand before but then I've just purchased mine from Lee Valley so I don't know what brand they were either.

 

why not...
it will work in some places and if it doesn't go w/ the other...

 

Great prices, Otto!
1/4"x20 T bolts should work perfectly.
5/16" T bolts should as well...
Inches and Decimal Equivalents

 

It is only 0.73 wide, will it be too loose in a slot cut with a standard 0.75 router bit?

 

no...

 

Buy it direct from them, not thru Amazon. Check Amazon for reviews, you won't find many negatives.

 

I checked out the reviews on Amazon a well as searched the Internet.

I just wanted to check with those in the know if there could be a reason for not using the track like accessories comparability.

I think I'll buy a few 48" tracks (with some spares for later growth) and cut them to size. It might take a bit for me to put them to use but I'll give a review when I can.

 

If you wanted to add glue in the dado before you set the track that would barely be enough room.

 

Barely good or barely bad?

Should I add a small shim when setting the jig so I have a little more wiggle room?

What would be the best glue to help join the two?

 

"What would be the best glue to help join the two?"
-Otto


Join them? You mean a butt joint, end to end? Why would you do that? The stuff's so cheap, just save the offcuts for jigs and stuff. If you meant a run over 48", a tiny bevel on the tracks' upper inner rims' ends will ensure that the clamps slide freely from one to the next.

 

Joining the track to a table. Wood-Alunimum.

I'm thinking the 48" because its the best value and I can cut it down to any length I need, I sure hope I don't need one longer than 48"

 

Not much sticks to the aluminum but epoxy would be the best with Gorilla glue coming in second. Mostly it would just be to make sure the fit is tight and most of the pressure is sideways anyway.

 

Thanks. I was guessing epoxy but wasn't sure what my options might be.

Edit:
I forgot I had this paged saved http://www.thistothat.com I've only used it once but thought it might come in handy one day. Looks like that day is coming.

 

So the specs for this track says "Punched and Countersunk Holes 3” on Center to Accommodate #8 Pan Head Screws" Why would you use pan head screws? Won't they just hang up the 1/4-20 bolt heads sliding in the slot?

Or do they mean "counter bored..." or do they mean "...to accommodate #8 flat head screws"?

I'm looking for alternatives to Peachtree's inexpensive T-track, which is not c'sunk properly to flush the mounting screw heads.

 

why bother gluing...
just butt the ends together and all will be good...

 

If you have pre-drilled holes every 3" you won't need glue unless the fit is a little sloppy. I don't get the recommendation for pan head screws though. I would be using flat head. I have a bunch of screws from Lee Valley that had undercut heads which made them sit flusher than regular flat heads. They were made for using on drawer slides to avoid the clicking you can get when screws hit each other but I can't find them on LV's website so I don't know if they still carry them.

 

If you look closely at the track cutaway diagram you will see that overall thickness is almost 1/2" thick, with a recessed screw track below the main track for the 1/4-20 bolt head. So a pan head screw may pose no problem, as opposed to most track, which I believe is about 3/8 thick requiring countersunk flathead screws. I think??

 

I would think a modified truss head would work even better...

.

 

I ordered three tracks. They were packaged very well and the tracks look as good as I could have hoped for. Shipping was quick taking only two days from Southern California to Idaho. If I'm ever in need of one an aluminum product I'll be sure to look at their website again.

Whenever I can get around to finishing my router table and secondary bench top I'll include a picture of the tracks in place.

 

Little Tip

I started mounting my T-Track, and a little issue with these tracks.

They will work fine for 1/4" bolts and 1/4" t nuts, but if you want to also use the 5/16" T-Bolts you are going to have to grind about .030" to .040" off the T part of the bolt .015" to .020" off each side works. other than that they should work fine.

Also I went ahead and used a countersink on the holes, and am using flat head screws.

I also plan on using my rockler bench cookie standoffs in these T-Tracks so I took 1/4" square nuts and drilled them out, and tapped them to 5/16-18 to accept the threaded stud on the bench cookie standoff. Works great also.

other than that I think these are OK to use. Depends if you want to do a few mods or not.

Danny