I wouldn't use aluminum if its not anodized, but having said that, if you coat it with paste wax then maybe there wouldn't be the "marking" problem. Just my 2 cents, im no pro or expert.

 

+1 on the anodizing... Most of the name brands are... About the only really functional difference I can think of is Phenolic are generally 3/8 thick and AL are 1/4". Difference of 1/8" depth of cut.

 

So in general theres no diference, they both do an adequate job its just a personel choice and cost.
thanks for the input

 

"marking problem" is that anything like how I had marks from the feet of the router table on my table saw before I started putting something on top of the table before using it? Aluminum saw table top...think router table top too. I have since waxed and buffed out the table top. Should probably do it again soon.

 

Annodized aluminium is great until it gets scratched,then visually is looks awful. Phenolic works. I have both. They both make good inserts and are good materials for making and using as router tools.

 

The last plate that I made for a 1/2" Bosch router was from the bottom corner of this 3.5mm Aluminium painted plate and it was fine, no sag whatsoever.

 

I think between the two that aluminum would maybe be a little stiffer, but I've heard a lot of good things about phenolic too. Sounds like a luxury problem to me.

 

Thanks for all of your input, i think it is just the cosmetic look then that people go on, as there does not seem to be any strength issues between the two, both are well capable of dealing with what they are designed for, Routing.
Remember, if you don't ask, you won't find out.
Thanks again,
steve

 

I started with Phenolic and replaced it with aluminum because of sagging. My advice is to spend a little extra and use aluminum. Good luck.

 

I use two phenolic plates that have "sagged"-(is that a word?) the first had a 3 hp router mounted on it for 2 years, the 2nd was new in the box and has .42mm deflection from the edge to the center.

How the finished product is affected by these variations depends entirely on the workpiece size- Interior doors, no problem, but when it comes down to short workpieces- especially jointery, dovetails, etc. the flatness of the plate is very important and deformations can cause big problems.
I'm paying a little extra for aluminum next time...

 

Thanks, sparky

 

if you ever had an aluminum tool box on your truck, you realize that everything in it gets a black marking on it that gets on your hands and everything it touches. that shows you what aluminum will do.

i would say that a huge majority of plates are phenolic and not for cost, but for ease of work and not being a problem marking everything it touches. just my .02 ceants.

 

You're dead-on there, Levon!

Base aluminum oxidizes (similar to rusting) very quickly when exposed to air. If you have something aluminum and can coat it with something to keep the air away, the problem disappears. That's why the annodize many aluminum things. Wax, spray lacquer or other finishes will get rid of the black until (unless) the finish wears off. In some things that isn't possible, but sometimes you can get creative...

 

youre right Jim ,
and im sure the coatings help a lot that is till they do wear away.

i guess i just have a bad taste in my mouth about aluminum. my aluminum toolbox on my truck makes me hate aluminum,lol.

i cant get anything out without needing to wash my hands afterward.

 

An alternative that has not been mentioned in this thread is lexan (polycarbonate). In the 3/8 (9.5 mm) thickness it has very good strength and is easily workable with o-flute router bits. Lexan is used as windshields in NASCAR race cars. It has much greater mechanical strength than polyacrylics (plexigas or Lucite), but it does have chemical sensitivities that aluminum, phenolics and polyacrylics do no9t have. It should work very well as a plate material.

 

Thanks Tom, I will take a look at lexan to see how readily available it is.

 

Steve, I am very gratified that I was able to make a useful suggestion. You did notice one advantage I had not mentioned, Lexan is clear so the router is visible as you work.

One thing of which I was not certain is availability of lexan for you. My primary source turns out to be a Canadian company, Lee Valley & Veritas.

We (the forum members) could certainly have a very useful and informative discussion about the merits of phenolic vs. aluminum (aluminium) vs. lexan, and we seem to be well on the way.

 

It's nice to see you back Tom, how's your health at the moment?

 

Thanks very much Harry. I would not say that I am back at this point. My medications have been adjusted to try to alleviate some of the "drugged" sensation, but there has to be a balance between being drugged and leg stiffness and spasticity. Right now I seem to have the worst of both worlds. Also with current work situations it is rare that I am able to do more than just observe this forum. There are also other issues. If it warms up about 10° C I hope to get out the router next week.

I will also have say that I am displeased with the way discussions of a certain topic that cannot be named were handled :bad:. Those discussions were the best and most thought provoking in which I have ever participated, and I work in an academic environment! The discussion was ended before I was able to make "my" case. Sincere great thanks :thank_you2:for starting the discussion.

 

Well I ordered a piece of clear Lexan A4 size 12mm thick £6.00, I'll have a mess around with it see how it fits in a table. I can always rebate it down for the edges and router base. I could even take it to a machine shop and have it made to accept the twist-lock rings.

 

I've been thinking about this thread the last couple of days and while I'm pretty much in the aluminum camp, I can relate to Levon's position. I went through the anodizing on a $65 plate in about 4 months. I wonder if anyone has tried having an aluminum plate powder coated?

 

Powder coating might make the plate proud of the table. The stuff is thicker than the anodizing.

 

Hi Jim - I was thinking about that. Aluminum plates usually come with leveling kits as most commercial tables seem to be sized for phenolic anyway. Could also make the rabbet a bit deeper. Just kicking around a few random thoughts.
Likely not that great an idea, my flashes of brilliance are infrequent and fleeting anymore. Just thought I'd toss it out for some opinions.

 

Most of the plates I've seen come from the major manufacturers are made from aluminum or phenolic as their choice of material. There must be a reason for these being the main two types of materials used for plates over the clear lexan. Maybe it conducts more static? I know the fences & jigs made from UHMW plastic do.

 

Well as I stated earlier, I bought a piece of clear Lexan 12mm A4 size for £6 off e-bay. It only comes with square edges so had to get the chisel out. I mounted it in a 40mm worktop, just to get me up and running. I'm having some inserts made at a local machine shop, I also bought some 3mm to make some sub bases. I must say that while using the sub base there was a little drag, thought this might be just the timber being too moist. I sprayed a little silicone friction spray on and wallah smooth as silk. We could start a new sport, router curling.
Overall impression is good for my first router table, just need to add it to a base, some drawers for storage and disco lights under the lexan.

 

Disco lights: the essential table router accessory! Actually lighting from below could be very useful.

Router curling, an interesting idea. I did watch as much Winter Olympics curling as I could. I still mourn the loss by the Canadian Womens team on the last rock of the 11th end. I was also very impressed by the Paralympic curling champion in the short clip I saw.

On a more serious note, it seems there is no perfect router base material, but I still prefer lexan over aluminum (aluminium). The Oak-Park phenolic base plates have also worked well for me but with my Oak-Park table are always slightly elevated (proud) above the table surface, and that caused me problems with wide stock and glue joint bits. While I could solve the problem by putting pressure on the stock closer to the router bit, it was those problems that caused me to get serious about building my own table (Baltic Birch) using 3/8 in (9.5 mm) lexan.

The reasons I have not used aluminum is that I could not find a square base, the easy destruction of the anodizing material, nor could I drill out the space required to use the Router Raizer. (I am confined to a wheelchair so changing bit heights while the router is in the table is a time-consuming nuisance.) On the other hand, lexan can be worked almost as if it were wood, but some care is required to avoid melting it.

 

We could start a new sport, router curling.

Don't!!!

If you do it will be an olympic sport within 3 years. The Winter Olympics are boring enough.

Unless...

Full-contact synchronized router biathlon curling cross...anyone?

 

We could sit at half time with a cup of tea and biscuit (joiner) lol:nhl_checking:

 

Forget phenolic unless price is an issue and go for a high quality 3/8" anodized aluminum. It won't leave any marks and will never sag.

 

A lot depends on the thickness/quality of the anodizing.
I wore through a MLCS plate in less than 6 months. :bad:
That's why I am considering powder coating the old one. I like the strength/thickness ratio of aluminum over phenolic because of bit height considerations. Right now I am trying Krylon epoxy appliance paint as a coating on the old plate to see how well that holds up. Will let you know, the stuff sure is nice and slick though.

 

That's why I said "high" quality, JessEm, Woodpeckers, etc.....The MLCS router plate is only 1/4" and the website doesn't mention if it's anodized.

 

Is it possible to have an aluminium plate topped with a thin veneer layer of phenolic? Like maybe a 1/8th inch piece.. The aluminiun would provide a stiff unsagging foundation and the phenolic could act as an interface between the aluminium and the work piece... You might lose height advantage but it wouldnt mark anything..

 

Hi Mike - I was gonna give you guys some feed back later anyway but guess this is as good a time as any.
I wore through the anodizing on my MLCS plate. Of course there were black marks. I have painted the thing with Krylon Appliance Epoxy. Have run half a dozen drawers worth of work through it so far, black marks are gone and there is no sign of any wear on the paint. Still to early to tell what the long term wear characteristics are going to be but so far looks good. Nice slick finish too.