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Plunge router

4.5K views 14 replies 10 participants last post by  multitom  
#1 ·
Hi gentleman

I am new member here and recently a Black & Decker plunge router was gifted to me:)
I have been scroll saw worker (hobby) since last two years and do some pattern making also for the community where I am a member.

Can you all guide me please, I wish to convert his plunge router as a table top as well, I have done some research on the net , came up with few ideas but some how I am not able to figure out once the router is fixed the start switch needs to be constantly pressed to cut, is there any way to solve this, as the body is below the table , I hope I was able to explain properly:unsure:

Thank you for your help.
mahendra
 
#2 ·
Hi Mahendra. Unfortunately routers where you have to hold the power switch on aren't really suitable for table use, for the reason you have described. Often it's possible to dismantle the router and replace the switch with one that latches on, but that's not something that should be attempted unless you're confident with electrics, and obviously it would void your warranty.
 
#4 ·
Hi Mahendra - welcome to the forum:)
Those switches aren't terribly difficult to defeat, some will have a trigger lock (button on the side of the handle which will lock it on when it is pressed while the trigger is being held). If yours is not equipped with a trigger lock, a short piece of duct tape will suffice. You really need to purchase or wire a remote switch to power the router on and off from a convenient location on the table though. Can be as simple as wiring a switched outlet to plug the router into.
Good Luck:)
 
#6 · (Edited)
Hi Mahendra

My solution is simple; cable tie around the router switch then wire the router through an on-off switch (a surface mounted socket/switch with a back box. That allows you to switch on and off at the router table

Regards

Phil
 
#8 ·
Mahendra - most tables have a zero volts/current cut off on off switch. If the power fails whilst the machine is on the switch cuts out so that it will not switch on when power is resumed. if you dont have this, and leave the machine unattended say to check the fuse, when the power comes back on the machine would start and if your hands are near the cutters - disaster.
My advice is to rig a zero current cut out on/off switch to feed a double socket on the machine then plug your router and a vac into it.
 
#10 ·
Members often forget that even routers with the same model number can vary in different countries.

Mahendra, if possible you are best to have two routers. A fixed base model or a plunge router with the springs removed works great when table mounted. An intact plunge router is best for most free hand work. It is usually not fun removing and replacing the springs.
 
#15 ·
few questions



Mike , you are right it is cumbersome to assemble and then take it down for portable use( I have not used much). In a couple of months time I might go for another one.

The bits are 8mm with six different profiles and like I mentioned in my introduction not much of wood choices to work with, your advice is requested,I have few questions and will appreciate your help.

1) I have mounted the router on the table and a fence also( made by watching some of the photos here), should i start with light cuts(feeds) by keeping the bit lower in level with the table and increase the height after each pass.

2) I wish to make a frame out of pine which is easily available, I have watched a video by Steve Ramsay and it looks very simple but for a total novice like me choosing the bit for the correct cuts and measurements is slightly confusing( was always a bit slow in maths:laugh:)

I know no question is a stupid question when it comes to learning:)

Kindly excuse my incorrect terminology used in my questions.

Also thank you gentlemen for your kind advice.

Thanks Mike

Mahendra
 
#12 ·
whats the difference to having the springs in the the table router as to removing them instead
Hi Chris

It just takes a bit more effort to crank the router cutter upwards

Regards

Phil
 
#13 ·
I usually put a small g-cramp on the switch, and plug the router into a switched socket. I experimented with a footswitch instead of the router-mounted switch - I had a few scares with it so no more footswitches. Some inexpensive router tables come with a built-in switch, you could hard-wire your router into one of those, if they are available in your country.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Chris, if you have the springs in a table mounted plunge router you need to fasten the mounting plate to the table to make adjustments. With the springs removed there is no need to do this. Switching bits is done quick and easy by popping the mounting plate out of the table. Some routers have special features to make this even easier. The Triton TRA001 is designed so it is easy to remove the spring. The Bosch 1619EVS (UK model is the GOF2000) has a plunge spring defeat so the springs do not need to be removed and still adjusts like a regular router with the springs removed.