Hi Brian

If you are saying that you are using a sled ,it's true the bit will remove some of the sled...but only just a little bit of the top edge of it..once it's gone it's gone..

But you don't need a sled to do the job..just a good push block..

if you want to know the easy way just ask and I will try and help..


=====

 

Great and thank you. Now I do not feel like a complete idiot. I wanted to use the sled for safety sake and trying to do it right. I had moved the router bit up and down the fence back and forth while looking for something I was doing wrong. Will the initial contact with the sled damage the bit?

 

Hi Brian

No it will not harm the bit at all

=====

 

bob:
I forgot to ask. What is your idea for a good push block. I always try to learn something new.
Brian

 

HI Brian

Here's a snapshot of the push block...the real trick is to use wide stock then rip the rock to size after the cope cut is in place the same thing is true for the for all the parts...no sled needed

I should note why I like to use a push block over a sled..

It's easy to use the sled for the cope cut but then you must switch bits,to use the bead bit and you need to reset the height of the bit,that will always give you a error in the cut the norm..the trick is to put the bead bit in place and not move the router up or down..with the push block way all the joints will come out right on the button every time...

With a grommet in the harbor of the router you have a place for the bit to use as a stopping point.
Almost all R & P bits are matched,that's to say the cutters are lined up from the bottom side of the shank...they make them that way so you can make the joints come out right every time.. you could call it a index point on the router bit..



====


======

 

Or, just a good SQUARE piece of 3/4" plywood will do the job.

 

Just to balance the perspectives here, the advantage I see in using a sled is that the workpiece is held more solidly than is possible using just a push block. As such, slight variations in the cut due to vibration and such are avoided, resulting in more precise joints.

On the Rockler sled you have, Brian, note that the instructions indicate that a slight rabbet will be cut on the top side of the sled base. That's normal and anticipated.

 

Just to balance the perspectives here, the advantage I see in using a sled is that the workpiece is held more solidly than is possible using just a push block. As such, slight variations in the cut due to vibration and such are avoided, resulting in more precise joints.

On the Rockler sled you have, Brian, note that the instructions indicate that a slight rabbet will be cut on the top side of the sled base. That's normal and anticipated.

If you are worried about movement simply use some carpet tape on the edge to hold the piece to the push block. Or, put some sandpaper on the edge of the push block.

 

That may be, but I have made entire kitchens using a push block. After making hundreds of doors(not for profit) I have determined that clamping, moving, re-clamping to a sled just adds WAY to much time and gives no better results at all, even for a project by a homeowner. I just do not think the sled is required in any way especially seeing the doors will come out just as nice without it faster and just as safe.

Of course it can not hurt to use the sled for this purpose, but many think it is the do all and start to forget about safety and get lax when using the sled. So even with a sled please be careful and do not let the sled fool you into a false sense of security.

 

Thanks Ralph:
But my sled did not come with any instructions thus leading to my frustration. It looked as though the box was opened and returned.The sled itself was sealed in a plastic bag and in good shape. Thanks for your help, it pays to ask questions.

 

I bought the Rockler coping sled a couple weeks ago when it was the "deal of the day".
I've never made a stile & rail door until last weekend and it turned out great. I didn't think it was a big hassle to clamp the workpiece in the sled and I felt very safe and comfortable not having my hands on the workpiece.

 

I bought the jig the same day. Did you cope the rail ends first or do the stiles? Does it make a difference? I am just making the doors out of select pine and hard board for the kids kithen cabinets. They plan on painting so that takes a little stress off the job. I can make a minor mistake or two.

 

Hi Brian,

I believe that Bob & Rick cut the cope ends on the rails first. I'll stand corrected if I'm wrong.

 

The Rockler version is 39.99 on sale I am not sure what everyone is paying but you only get that catalog price if you call, it is not in store or on the web. I am not sure how long this price is going to be held for. The catalog is G9-A with "G9996" on the back of the catalog. It's on page 135 which shows the 39.99 price.

The first page is gone so I am unsure of the exact month probably Feb or March.



Nick

 

As I recall, the instructions for the Freud bits suggest coping the rails first, and then setting the bit for the stiles to fit the rails. I'm not sure it really makes any difference, as long as the joints fit properly.

FWIW, here's the sled I made:

 

HI Ralph

You must be using a super long coping bit or you have it pulled out almost to the end of the shank..

==========

 

Good evening everybody:
I want to thank all of you for your help. I purchased a little more lumber and made some test pieces and all went well. The Rockler coping jig worked just fine. Hopefully all will go well when I start making the doors. We are supposed to have cold weather the next few days and I do not feel like working in a cold garage. So the project may not continue until Friday.
I have only belonged to this forum for 24 hours but I sure do enjoy it.

 

Brian, I think you'll have less chance of tear-out if you cut the rails first

 

Thank you for your help

Thanks to everyone that gave me some advice using the rail coping Jig.
I made a lot of progress over the weekend.
But I did make one mistake and just had to laugh. I was putting a decorative edge on the last door and put the darned edge on the wrong side of the door.
Oh well, if that is all I did wrong that is not too bad. As Carlos Mencia would say
De Dee Deee. I will build a new door tomorrow and continue on.
Thanks again to all of you. I sure enjoy this site.
Brian:

 

I decided to follow the expert leads and coped the rail ends first. Everything worked out pretty well.