On a recent job, I used my router table to route the flutes upside down and stopping on pencil lines I marked on the fence. One or two flutes are a sixtenth off, but you'd have to stare & study to indentify the differences. I would have set stops but the pilasters were about 90" long, and setting stops on the router table would have taken too much time for the two boards I had to mill.
The half-round "molding" in the pilasters (between rosettes and flute section are actually blocks that divide the pilasters from the top section and was used as an aid for installation.
All the material, except the crown, cove and rosettes is treated lumber from the box store. Lots of Titebond II and stainless screws. Everything was primed prior to install, then two coats of high gloss followed. Someone on another forum said the treated material will not remain stable nor keep it's finish. I guess time will tell.
Below the pics describes how it was done if you're interested.
Thx for looking.
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I blew 22 cal. nails into the brick for attachment along with lots of Liquid Nails on all mating surfaces to the brick, and used stainless screws per the treated materials' OEM's recommendations.
The top section backer is treated 3/4" ply with treated 2x's glued and screwed from behind for the build-out, with more treated 3/4" ply for the trianglure sections. The lower edge of the ply backing has a solid (treated) 3/4" x 2-1/2" glued and pocket-screwed from behind to hide the plywood edge (didn't use stainless for these). Sitting above are treated 5/4" caps. (The crown, cove and rosetts are non-treated woods, although the rosets are inlaid into the treated 2x's.) The backers to the pilasters are treated 1x's, and the fluted pilasters are treated 2x's (the "half-round" profiled spacers between the rosetts and flutes are 3/4" treated blocks to facilitate installation). The pilaster shoes are treated 1x's.
After some expressed doubt about treated lumber stability and its ability to hold a finish, I am hoping the gallon of Titebond II and 37 pounds of stainless screws I used is enough to minimize wood movement. I should add that the 2X materials were, as was said, sopping wet when I bought them, but I set them out in the sun on stickers for a week, some of which warped. I salvaged enough 1X material for the job, but for the 2X8's I used for the pilasters, the warps were so bad that I cut a series of 1" deep cross-cut kerfs behind the affected areas so they would bend back when fastened, and filled the edges after installation. Time will only tell if the wood moves beyond acceptable measure.
I can't say that I doubt what has been said about the instability of treated wood, but with the methods I used for the design and constrution, makes my eye-brow raise as to its validity. Only time will tell.
Happy routing!
The half-round "molding" in the pilasters (between rosettes and flute section are actually blocks that divide the pilasters from the top section and was used as an aid for installation.
All the material, except the crown, cove and rosettes is treated lumber from the box store. Lots of Titebond II and stainless screws. Everything was primed prior to install, then two coats of high gloss followed. Someone on another forum said the treated material will not remain stable nor keep it's finish. I guess time will tell.
Below the pics describes how it was done if you're interested.
Thx for looking.
I blew 22 cal. nails into the brick for attachment along with lots of Liquid Nails on all mating surfaces to the brick, and used stainless screws per the treated materials' OEM's recommendations.
The top section backer is treated 3/4" ply with treated 2x's glued and screwed from behind for the build-out, with more treated 3/4" ply for the trianglure sections. The lower edge of the ply backing has a solid (treated) 3/4" x 2-1/2" glued and pocket-screwed from behind to hide the plywood edge (didn't use stainless for these). Sitting above are treated 5/4" caps. (The crown, cove and rosetts are non-treated woods, although the rosets are inlaid into the treated 2x's.) The backers to the pilasters are treated 1x's, and the fluted pilasters are treated 2x's (the "half-round" profiled spacers between the rosetts and flutes are 3/4" treated blocks to facilitate installation). The pilaster shoes are treated 1x's.
After some expressed doubt about treated lumber stability and its ability to hold a finish, I am hoping the gallon of Titebond II and 37 pounds of stainless screws I used is enough to minimize wood movement. I should add that the 2X materials were, as was said, sopping wet when I bought them, but I set them out in the sun on stickers for a week, some of which warped. I salvaged enough 1X material for the job, but for the 2X8's I used for the pilasters, the warps were so bad that I cut a series of 1" deep cross-cut kerfs behind the affected areas so they would bend back when fastened, and filled the edges after installation. Time will only tell if the wood moves beyond acceptable measure.
I can't say that I doubt what has been said about the instability of treated wood, but with the methods I used for the design and constrution, makes my eye-brow raise as to its validity. Only time will tell.
Happy routing!
