HI Rod - Welcome to the forum
I really can't help you with that but it is an interesting question, will be watching this thread. I assume you are looking for something to protect them for long term storage? I don't know why good old fashioned parafin wouldn't work.

 

Welcome to the RouterForums Rod. Glad you found us.

 

Hi Rod:

This isn't what you want but it might do in a pinch until you find the "read" stuff.

I used to have to "lock" on the bolts on my bicycle. They were all Allen head. I'd put some car wax (carnuba or something similar) into the cavity and let it dry. Then, I'd fill the cavity with silicone caulking. Worked like a charm. Take a pin and poke out the silicone and the wax kept the shoulders clean. Dip your product in the wax then in the silicone. As always, experiment on scrap first.

 

As requested, I've updated my profile. I'm retired and spend a good bit of my time in a woodworking shop currently located in my basement. It's pretty well equipped and I'll soon need to be considering a separate shop in the back yard as I keep stumbling over tools. I've got quite a few saw blades, shaper cutters, & router bits. I have a small Unimat Compact 5 lathe I bought many years ago and I recently bought a used, inexpensive, carbide saw blade sharpening machine I found in a local posting. With these two machines I'm able to sharpen all my own carbide tooling although it takes a while to do the larger shaper knives.

After a bit of practice, I'm now able to bring all these tools back to "as new" condition without a lot of difficulty. Since I don't have to send them anywhere to be sharpened, I can keep them sharp without a lot of trouble. I sharpen them more often than I otherwise would do, but as they're not very dull when sharpened, little carbide is removed & there's little waste.

My blades, bits & cutters are all stored in open racks in the shop & I thought it would be nice to dip them in wax as some of them will go months or years between uses.

Thanks all,

Rod Betts

p.s. - My most annoying woodworking complaint by far is the vast amount of time it takes to set up a router. Always, always, always, you spend more time to set up a router than it takes to use it. Someone really needs to get working on this! I have five or six routers, most of which I set up and never change, all because it takes so long to set them up.

 

My most annoying woodworking complaint by far is the vast amount of time it takes to set up a router. Always, always, always, you spend more time to set up a router than it takes to use it. Someone really needs to get working on this! I have five or six routers, most of which I set up and never change, all because it takes so long to set them up.

I find this to be true of most wood working equipment. Patience is not my forte. By the time I find the wood, square the wood, set up the saw/router/planer/jointer/whatever for the cuts/shapes I need I'm too tired to make the project.

 

I share that feeling sometimes myself. Then, I stop and remind myself how long it would take to do the job without the tool I'm setting up/cleaning up.
Kinda like the paint sprayer. 30 min to set up, 30 min to clean up, 30 min to spray. Ok, took me an hour and a half and got the same job done it would have taken 4 hours to do with a brush...
Can't comprehend the time difference between a router and a chisel..

 

Okay guys, here’s the deal. Since I started this thread, I ought to be able to say this w/o upsetting anyone.

First, I really do want to know where I can get some of the router bit wax goop I mentioned in my first posting. I’m hoping someone will come along & give me a lead. I can’t seem to find anything by googeling & I would like to have the real thing.


Second, we’ve gotten off topic. To my knowledge, there are no other shop tool as awkward to setup as are routers. Here’s why:


1st - Although there are minor exceptions, most routers will neither stand on their head nor lay peacefully on their side while they’re being setup. If you try to stand them on their heads to change bits, they fall over. If you try to do it with them laying on their side, they roll all over the bench or onto the floor. On most routers, the cords come out of the top making it impossible to stand set them up. Changing bits is a three-handed job in a two-handed world. This would be an easy fix if only router manufacturers would think before they start casting parts.

2nd - Another concern is the Porter Cable type template guides that have become standard on most routers. They’re almost impossible to securely lock in place. They’re designed to be hand tightened but when hand tightened, vibrate loose. The only option is to tighten them with Channel-Lock pliers which chews up the rings. Also, if the threads are tight (normal) there’s no way to hold the guide while the ring is being tightened so you can’t tighten them anyway unless you use another pair of pliers which destroys the guides. It would be so simple to design a system that uses a set screw to lock the collets in place, yet no one has gone there.

3rd - The small openings in the side of the router base are awkward to use, especially if you’ve misplaced the wrench or wrenches that came with the router (they seem always able to find a places to hide) and you need to use substitutes, such as crescent wrenches. Someone needs to design a base with a flip-up bottom that can be tilted out of the way for better access - not a difficult task I shouldn’t think.

All routers should have a shaft locking slide on the side of the router otherwise you need one hand to hold the router, another hand to push in a strongly springed shaft locking button and then, of course, your third hand to turn the router collet lock nut wrench. All this could be avoided by making the armature shaft a little larger, running a collet locking bolt up through the shaft that could be loosened or tightened from above. Simple enough but no one’s been there yet.

4th - The near universal aluminum to aluminum contact between router motor and base is a dreadful combination. Without constant waxing they’re always binding and galling. A little nylon or similar material between these rubbing surfaces would make all the difference yet no one seems able or willing to do a fix.

5th - I could go on but I’ll mention only this one last but SERIOUSLY ANNOYING peeve. Every tool manufacturer that uses stiff plastic power cords should have their CEO blindfolded and shot. Well, maybe a blindfold wouldn’‘t be necessary.

Now you have it. I’ll annoy you no more.


Rod

 

Okay guys, here’s the deal. Since I started this thread, I ought to be able to say this w/o upsetting anyone.

First, I really do want to know where I can get some of the router bit wax goop I mentioned in my first posting. I’m hoping someone will come along & give me a lead. I can’t seem to find anything by googeling & I would like to have the real thing.

Doug has hit the nail on the head, below.

Second, we’ve gotten off topic. To my knowledge, there are no other shop tool as awkward to setup as are routers. Here’s why:

1st - Although there are minor exceptions, most routers will neither stand on their head nor lay peacefully on their side while they’re being setup. If you try to stand them on their heads to change bits, they fall over. If you try to do it with them laying on their side, they roll all over the bench or onto the floor. On most routers, the cords come out of the top making it impossible to stand set them up. Changing bits is a three-handed job in a two-handed world. This would be an easy fix if only router manufacturers would think before they start casting parts.

Put the 7x7 or 11x11 OakPark baseplate on and it will hold the router quite nicely at a reasonable angle to release the collet with the two wrench system.

2nd - Another concern is the Porter Cable type template guides that have become standard on most routers. They’re almost impossible to securely lock in place. They’re designed to be hand tightened but when hand tightened, vibrate loose. The only option is to tighten them with Channel-Lock pliers which chews up the rings. Also, if the threads are tight (normal) there’s no way to hold the guide while the ring is being tightened so you can’t tighten them anyway unless you use another pair of pliers which destroys the guides. It would be so simple to design a system that uses a set screw to lock the collets in place, yet no one has gone there.

There are brass and steel template guides. Steel guides are usually provided by router manufacturers because of cost. However, they do garner some support from members here. There are two sizes of brass template guides,
1 3/16 PorterCable size and 1 3/4 OakPark/LeeValley size. I prefer the 1 3/4 brass with a ring nut and tighten slightly more than finger tight.

3rd - The small openings in the side of the router base are awkward to use, especially if you’ve misplaced the wrench or wrenches that came with the router (they seem always able to find a places to hide) and you need to use substitutes, such as crescent wrenches. Someone needs to design a base with a flip-up bottom that can be tilted out of the way for better access - not a difficult task I shouldn’t think.

I'm not going to touch that one.

All routers should have a shaft locking slide on the side of the router otherwise you need one hand to hold the router, another hand to push in a strongly springed shaft locking button and then, of course, your third hand to turn the router collet lock nut wrench. All this could be avoided by making the armature shaft a little larger, running a collet locking bolt up through the shaft that could be loosened or tightened from above. Simple enough but no one’s been there yet.

Use the OakPark baseplate and two wrenches. It takes one hand. The shaft lock requires 4 hands to tighten and three to release the collet.

4th - The near universal aluminum to aluminum contact between router motor and base is a dreadful combination. Without constant waxing they’re always binding and galling. A little nylon or similar material between these rubbing surfaces would make all the difference yet no one seems able or willing to do a fix.

My M12V is steel on brass, I think. The base is magnesium alloy, the columns are steel and there are bronze? bearing inserts inside the column receivers.

5th - I could go on but I’ll mention only this one last but SERIOUSLY ANNOYING peeve. Every tool manufacturer that uses stiff plastic power cords should have their CEO blindfolded and shot. Well, maybe a blindfold wouldn’‘t be necessary.

Isn't it amazing how they can cheapen a tool by a cord.

Now you have it. I’ll annoy you no more.

Well, you haven't even started. In fact, you've contributed handsomely and I thank you for it.

 

Rod,

This is what we use at work for long term storage. I'll be honest, its a little messy, but it works.

LPS 3 Premier Rust Inhibitor - LPS Lubricants

Hope this helps.


PS- The site below is how the pros do it.

http://www.evanscoatings.com/

 

Hey Rod, since you INSIST that we stay on the original topic... :sarcastic:

I don't know where you can get the same stuff, maybe at a tool shop or something similar? What might work for you is stuff called (I think) Plas-dip. I've seen it at the BORG in the past in the tool coral. If colour is an issue, I've only seen it in black, but it's for dipping tool handles in. It leaves a rubber coating behind.

 

Thanks for all the info guys. I'll check them out & let you know what I find.

Rod

 

Hi Rod - Not sure but I am guessing this is the kinda stuff you are asking about. Suspect it is gonna be priced for shops though.:sad:
Hot melt strippable dip coatings & melting tanks from Evans Coatings - Detroit area, Michigan

 

Thanks for all your help guys. I'm aware of most all the suggested remedies. I bought a MileCraft router plate a while ago but it seems so frail (especially the inserts), I've never installed it so it sits on a shelf. I've pretty much given up on Craftsman. Over the years, I've had too many failures with they're electrical tools. It seems like everyone else is cheapening up their stuff so maybe now they're no worse than others. I can't think of a tool brand that I've not been disappointed with at some time or other.

The guy at MLCS either didn't know or wouldn't say where I could get the router coating goop. I've sent an email asking about the Hot Melt Type I Wax. I haven't had a response yet but fear they'll want to sell it in 55 gallon drums.

I know there are routers available that have fixed some of the problems I've mentioned but none of them have fixed them all, or for that matter, as far as I know, even more than one on any given model. Besides, why should we have to spend all that extra money to fix things that should have been built right in the first place? So far, I think my system works best. Buy routers cheap on eBay (so what if they're not new) set them up in the more commonly used setups & then leave them setup. Heck, I could buy at least two additional routers for the same money it would cost me to buy all those desirable router trinkets. Even if you have to throw one away once in a while, you might still be ahead and it's sure nice to pick up a router, turn it on, route, and then put it back on the shelf when done.

Regards,

Rod Betts

 

The guy at MLCS either didn't know or wouldn't say where I could get the router coating goop. I've sent an email asking about the Hot Melt Type I Wax.

[/QUOTE]

Rod:

Evans Coatings have a toll free number. Just give them a call.

 

I wonder if you emailed one of the companies that does sharpening of saw blades what they use to coat blades with if they would be helpful?

 

Okay guys, here's the poop.

Evans Coatings has the right stuff but won't sell less than 25 lbs. The same stuff is sold through McMaster Carr only they sell in smaller quantities. The item number is 7762T44. It's called Hot-Melt Reusable Peel-Away Coating Style A. I bought 5 lbs. for $31.66 and I guess that includes shipping as they didn't add any shipping costs to the invoice. It is also available in other quantities. There are other styles but A or B are likely what you'd want to use.

I don't have it yet. When I get it, and if there is anything else to report, I'll do another posting.

Thanks all,

Rod Betts

 

Hi Rod - 5 lbs should go a long way. I didn't notice it on the Evans website but McM says it is reusable. Just peel it off and toss it back in the pot... Kool.

 

Is there anything that you can't get at either McMaster-Carr or Grainger?

 

I'm not sure. Do they ship to Canada? If not, everything is what we can't get at either.

 

World wide shipping

McMaster-Carr Help

=========

 

Hey Rod, I know this will sound to easy and cheap, but I keep a toilet bowl wax ring handy for all kinds of things in my shop and it works great for protection as well as lubing up wood screws and other things, just slip it over an old towel rack and keep an old sock handy for rubbing it on stuff, Way simple

 

Hi

I just don't get it, once you have that junk off why would you want to put it back on.

Now if you live in a jungle I could see putting it back on but other wise, it's very hard to see the true profile of the bits with that junk on..you can always use the hvy.plastic bags that many ship the bits in..I have 50 or so if you need some..

========

=======

 

Just to answer a few questions & make a few comments:

1. I received the tool wax (I'll call it wax for want of better short name.) and it turns out that I lied in my last posting. McMaster Carr did add $6.00 to my credit card to cover shipping (total $37.66.)

2. Why would you use it - 1) Corrosion control, 2) Protect from damage if dropped etc., 3) sharp edges that if left exposed can cut & damage & and injure. 4) the wax is oily enough that I'm pretty sure, after a while, it would penetrate into router bit bearings keeping them well lubricated. As you know, oil seems to creep & crawl and get into everything so why not into router bit bearings? The stuff sure leaves a nice oily residue on router bits. I haven't seen a router bit or saw blade yet that won't rust given enough time and I live in a semiarid area.

3. I've used it and it works well. The melting point is 350 degrees (wish it was a bit lower.) I put it in a tin can and melted it with a propane torch but won't do so again, it's pretty messy & cumbersome. Tried an old kitchen slow cooker with water in it and the tin can set in the water. Didn't get hot enough. I may try a small electric frying pan if I can find one on eBay that's small enough, cheap enough, and deep enough. If not, I'll try for a used hot plate and small kitchen pan. You can buy melters but they're expensive.

4. Yes, although I haven't tried it yet, I'm sure the wax would be reusable and I intend to reuse it. There may be a limit to how many times it can be reheated. Time will tell.

5. Toilet wax rings? Sounds handy. It's not designed for rust control but could be helpful as long as there's not something in it that promotes damage or corrosion. I keep a wax furniture polish handy for cast iron surfaces etc. Likely does about the same thing.

6) Now the big question. Is it worth all bother and trouble? For some, the answer would certainly be no. For me --- the jury's still out but I have so much time, bother, and money invested that I'm committed.

 

For me --- the jury's still out but I have so much time, bother, and money invested that I'm committed.

So, that makes you an honest evaluator! If it's bad, it's got to be really bad for you to criticize it. Otherwise, you'll provide either unqualified support or qualified support.

 

The toilet bowl wax ring is pure bee's wax. Won't hurt a thing....

 

I store my saw blades in Tupperware with a piece of cardboard between. Spray them with a little LPS or WD40 if corrosion is going to be a problem. You could always add a little camphor in a 35mm film cartriage with holes in it also.
Dan

 

Why a wax coating? You should look into BOESHIELD T-9 it's great stuff. I use it all the time. The amount of protection offsets the cost.

Penetrates deeply to seal out moisture. Specially formulated waterproof metal lubricant developed by Boeing Aircraft Co. that deeply penetrates metal pores and forms a protective barrier against rust build-up for up to 12 months. Non-fluorocarbon, ozone safe. Dries to a thin wax film in minutes to displace moisture and loosen rusted metal parts quickly and easily. Ideal for maintaining and storing hand tools, power tools, automobiles, marine equipment, or other items in your shop and home where moisture is a problem. No silicones to interfere with finish.

 

This is a questions I feel I can honestly answer!!! Who knew a 'newbie' could actually add anything useful! My father always used a good quality car wax both on his router table and fence. It made the wood slide through sooo much easier! One small tip... depending on how much use your particular router gets, you may need to clean the wax off periodically so it doesn't become too thick or 'gummy'. But if your router sees wood like my dad's did, this won't be an issue and even if it doesn't, the trade off of having a smooth run is well worth the 3 min. cleanup time!!!

 

Hello!

Thank's to argonot!

Who make this BOESHIELD T-9 ?
Where' s the doc ? looks very good!
I'm making my own soup for rust protection:
I just make a mix of micronised zinc, purified sheep grease+ olive oil.

It works,but it's not fun, better buy it.

Regards

 

Trend manufactures Tool & Bit cleaner. They claim this works well to prevent rust, removes resin build up and lets the bit or blade cut easier because of reduced friction. We will be putting this to the test at the International Sawdust Saturday event; Saturday May 26, 2012. I will post photos of the results.

 

Salut Gerard,

Est-ce que tu a du alcool isopropylique disponible chez vous? Je utilise 99% pour nettoyer mes outils avec une petite brosse en laiton. Par chance tu la trouverai dans une brocante de domicile!!!! :dance3: Mais il y a rien meilleur que T9 pour la garde glissante et sans rouille.

Hi Gerard:

Do you have isopropyl alcohol available in your area? I use 99% to clean my tools with a small brass brush. Maybe you can find it in a garage sale. There is nothing better than T9 to keep a tool clean and slippery.

Ron

BTW, I've updated and uploaded dust collection. To take a look there are a few "adjustments."

 

Hello Ron!

Alcool methylic availlable.
Got a ready made super-solvant but don't use it much:
a mix of isopropylic alcool and tetra-ethylène.
I also use cetone witch is highly flammable, dangerous and volatil but cleans.

One big problem is rust , I ve got sheds that are a bit damp, all my machines get rusty.
Been spraying car-oil, various species of anti-moisture, anti rust.
Nothing commercial works at the moment.
The mix with Zn works.It makes an electrolitic protection.
If water comes to metal , it saves the steel by oxydation of Zn.
I'd like to get it ready made , I' ll soon have no micronised Zn anymore.

I' ll reach for this T9.

Seen the dustcollection2.pdf today , getting better all the time, a work in progress...

Regards

 

Bonjour Gerard,

C'est quoi votre climat? Est-ce que c'est humide? Est-ce que tu peut chauffer votre atelier? Ça aide beaucoup. J'ai bâtir l’électricité dans mon atelier et le premier chose que j'ai installé c’était le chauffage. Juste une petite affaire de 2000 watt mais c'est tous que j'ai besoin. Juste assay pour enlever l'humidité.

Hi Gerard:

What is your climate> It is humid? Can you heat your workshop? It helps a lot. I built electricity into my shop and the first thing to be installed was the heating. It is just a little 2000w heater but that's all that I need. Just enough to keep out the humidity.

Ok, ran out of French so I'll finish in English! :lazy2:

The Methyl Alcohol is usable but the 99% isopropyl alcohol is less hazardous and just as effective. It doesn't evaporate as quickly as acetone and is much cheaper. You can get it at most pharmacien.

I do recommend the T9 and if you have a real problem, cover the T9 with a good coat of floor wax. The thick paste wax that your mother used to use on the floor.

Yup, on the dust collection. Getting better but a ways to go. I'm hoping some of the other members will comment so I can finally put it to bed.

Talk soon, Gerard.

Ron