I'd say welcome to the forum but you joined years ago lol . I think you may have to provide a better description of what your trying to do ?

So you want to take the legs off of this and attach it to the surface of a table saw . What is wrong with the table on the current saw , no fence or something ?

I think it's a recipe for disaster IMO :fie:

 

I'd say welcome to the forum but you joined years ago lol ...

Yeah, I joined by accident when I was dealing with the "other" type of router.

...

So you want to take the legs off of this and attach it to the surface of a table saw ...

No, It's a hand held circular saw, not a table saw. If it were a table saw I wouldn't be bothering.

There are many "how to's" on how to turn a hand held circular saw into a basic table saw, I just wondered if it would be feasible with this table as it saves messing about with creating fences, etc...

It's a pity it doesn't have drop in inserts, but for £20 I can't really expect too much can I?

That would be a bad idea N/a. Save yourself a lot of grief and make a simple edge guide to clamp on the wood or just buy one of the clamping guide bars ...

I'm getting a guide rail system of some sort, the KWB LineMaster looks appealing, but I have yet to take the plunge on one.

However, I am planning to build a shed and will need to rip some 3m+ cladding and thought a quick "table" would be easier. The saw does have a guide fence though, I'll probably make do with that in the short term.

Be sure to clamp or screw your router table in place when using it.

No worries there.

I had the same thought years ago but when I pondered the mechanics of it I determined that with a 7-1/2" diameter blade (3-3/4" radius, not all of that available for cutting) and at least a 3/4" table thickness, I couldn't cut anything thicker than about 1-1/4". Suddenly it didn't seem worth the effort. For me a second- (or 3rd-) hand table saw was the better option.

I was considering that, it was just the thought popped into my head.

Thanks for all the input guys.

 

That would be a bad idea N/a. Save yourself a lot of grief and make a simple edge guide to clamp on the wood or just buy one of the clamping guide bars.

Be sure to clamp or screw your router table in place when using it.

 

I had the same thought years ago but when I pondered the mechanics of it I determined that with a 7-1/2" diameter blade (3-3/4" radius, not all of that available for cutting) and at least a 3/4" table thickness, I couldn't cut anything thicker than about 1-1/4". Suddenly it didn't seem worth the effort. For me a second- (or 3rd-) hand table saw was the better option.

 

I think it would be too much work myself but here a good video by Matthias Wandel that shows you how to do it. Good luck!

 

Izzy Swan put up a YouTube video with a much simpler method, but it requires turning the table over or reaching underneath to use the saw's height adjustments. I don't have enough posts to include URLs yet; just paste "Build A Table Saw In 10 Minutes" into the YouTube search box. Izzy's method is like attaching a router that doesn't have above-the-table adjustment capability to an insert or directly to a table top, and reaching under the table or tilting the table top up to use the router's depth adjustments.

It's obviously not as great as a table saw, but I know from experience that, with the right blade, a simple well made saw guide, and careful measurements, a decent circular saw can make clean, smooth, precise cuts that only need a light sanding before finishing. In my mind, using that saw as a temporarily-fixed cutting tool might sometimes make perfect sense for those of us without workshops or room for a table saw in a tiny (or nonexistent, in my case) workshop.

(here's an example of those saw guides--much better pic than I'd take!)