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Sears Router Manual Mod # 315.17431

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38K views 26 replies 18 participants last post by  Cherryville Chuck  
#1 ·
Hi everyone

I really appreciate the help I got from this community in order to fix my friends router. As always he found the manual after we fixed the machine. I have decided to make the complete manual available to everyone.
Cheers

Dave Speer
 

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#4 ·
Yes, He was beginning to get an electrical burning odor from the machine so we decided to tear it down to give it a good cleaning and perhaps change the brushes. We couldn't figure out how to take the lock switch out in order to take the plastic housing off. I went to you site and someone had posted a photo which was worth a thousand words. Airer we were done he found the original Manuel which I was unable to find on the Internet. So I posted the whole thing for others to see
Cheers Dave
 
#3 ·
#14 ·
Welcome to the forum, Simon.

There are parts lists in the post that may help.
 
#16 ·
I am thinking that you may need a gear puller to remove the fan. ??

Any other suggestions?
 
#18 ·
I have this model and today realized that there is allot of axial play (in/out) of the shaft only when the motor is running. Can someone explain how the fan and lock switch is removed. I read about that the fan unscrews. Minme does not seem to budge and it sure does not look like it was meant to be gripped and spun. Does it spin CCW? I removed the setscrew from the lock switch, but the plastic handle does nto slid off. Any advice? Does anyone know what I might find to be the cause of the shaft play?
 
#19 ·
Hi JR and welcome. I had one apart a few years ago but I'm not 100% sure how I did it. It seems to me that it required getting the shaft lock off first. The play might be due to worn bearings.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Sears Router Model#315.17460

Thank you so much for sharing the manual on here! Yesterday, I bought a used Sear Router Model #315.17460 at the local Goodwill Store for $10!!!! It has quite a few bits with it too!!! However, no manual and there are a couple screws missing. After looking at the manual you have on here, I know what I need to use this router (a set screw and a clamping wing nut). I plugged it in just to make sure it turned on...woohoo! I am so excited!!! I want to make jewelry boxes for my granddaughters for Christmas. Any ideas of what to make for grandsons? Out of 14 grandchildren, 3 are boys-LOL!

Anyway, thank you again for your contribution!

Have a great day!!!!
Dianne L Springer
 
#21 ·
Dianne take the bolt out and take it with you to most any hardware store. Ask them for a wing nut to fit that bolt. Just keep in mind that there is a possibility that it might be metric. The 315 in the serial number indicates that it was made by Ryobi which is why I say that.
 
#24 ·
I'm new to woodworking and routers. I want to use my craftsman router 315.17431 in a router lift (stumpy numb's multi-function router lift). This seems to require separating the motor from the base. I can easily separate the two, but the motor is wired to the trigger in the base. Is there any way to separate the two and still have the motor run when power is sent to it?
 
#25 ·
Hi John and welcome. Take the switch apart and splice the motor leads to wires going to an auxiliary switch. You can use a regular light switch but Grizzly sells some better ones that aren't that pricey.
 
#26 ·
thanks

Thanks Chuck, that a great idea. From the manual it looks like there are 3 wires associates with the trigger switch, white, black and red. I'll take the handle apart and confirm this. I'll pick up a simple switch, wire it up
and see if the motor comes on when I plug it in. If that works, problem solved and you saved me from having to buy a new router to go with the lift. its a simple single speed router. I may find that I need a variable speed
one later as I try more ambitious projects. But if the lift works properly, it should be a fairly easy swap out of the motor with a new one.
 
#27 ·
John where you normally need speed control is when you start getting up to 1.5" diameter and larger. Recommended speeds for bit size charts are easily found with a web search are are also posted on some of the bit manufacturers sites. Since you are limited to 1/4" bits it shouldn't be an issue but if you get more serious about routing you'll eventually want to upgrade to more horsepower and 1/2" capability and either above table adjustment or a lift.

I'm not entirely sure why you have a red and black wire but only one should be used. It may be that one of those wires may have been for a work light in which case you don't want to hook up to that one. Maybe some with more experience with that router knows the answer. If no one responds here then I would start a new thread posing that question and get a definitive answer before proceeding.