Hi, I'm new to the forum and am hoping I can get some assistance is selecting a 10" sliding compound miter saw based on user recommendations. Thanks, Ken
ken1549
Hi Ken,
Welcome to the router forums.
You'll find that there are many different makes out on the market. I personally enjoy my Makita, then again, I'm a big fan of Makita. Others, will point you to, Rigid, DeWalt, Festool, and other brand names.
Give others time to chime in.
Welcome to the router forums.
You'll find that there are many different makes out on the market. I personally enjoy my Makita, then again, I'm a big fan of Makita. Others, will point you to, Rigid, DeWalt, Festool, and other brand names.
Give others time to chime in.
I have a hitachi which I can highly recommend. One thing to consider, is do you really need a slider. They are a lot deeper than a 12 inch miter saw.
Greetings and welcome to the router forum. Thank you for joining us. I have an older DeWalt 12" slider and like it a lot but don't care for the newer DeWalts. The Bosch that Deb got looks good to me also.
Just my 2 cents
I'm not to sure why anyone would buy a Sliding Compound Miter Saw when a RAS will put most of them to shame, I have not seen one yet that can rip stock,,I think they are made for the contractor that go's from job to job and does not want to drag a RAS to the job side..
The RAS can do so much more and are lower in price the norm..if you look at the big wood shops they just always have one ...like HD and Lowes to cut up stock..you will not see SCMS in the back the norm..
because they are so limited what they can do..I will say they are get for a cross cut saw..don't get me wrong I have two of them but the RAS is the tool for the shop..that can be used as a pin router setup as well
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I'm not to sure why anyone would buy a Sliding Compound Miter Saw when a RAS will put most of them to shame
, I have not seen one yet that can rip stock,,I think they are made for the contractor that go's from job to job and does not want to drag a RAS to the job side..The RAS can do so much more and are lower in price the norm..if you look at the big wood shops they just always have one ...like HD and Lowes to cut up stock..you will not see SCMS in the back the norm..
because they are so limited what they can do..I will say they are get for a cross cut saw..don't get me wrong I have two of them but the RAS is the tool for the shop..that can be used as a pin router setup as well
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Not to mention cost. I've had a 10" Craftsman Radial for 20 plus yrs, for the most part it acts as a catch all table. The only thing I use it for now is medium to large interlock dados in long stock. Otherwise I use a hand held TS or the RT.
I also have a 10" Bosch CS (12yrs old) and a 12" Mak DCS, (6yrs old). Both produce great accurate cuts for all molding and flat stock finish work with the proper blade.
However, I transport my saws to jobs which requires lifting, toting and constant jarring from the road in my trailer because of this the saws require regular realignment and maintenance.
I also have a 10" Bosch CS (12yrs old) and a 12" Mak DCS, (6yrs old). Both produce great accurate cuts for all molding and flat stock finish work with the proper blade.
However, I transport my saws to jobs which requires lifting, toting and constant jarring from the road in my trailer because of this the saws require regular realignment and maintenance.
I have the Makita compound sliding miter and have never regretted the purchase. It is mounted on a wheeled table with wings that let down to take up less room. You just can't do that with a radial arm saw.
Hello Ken What i want to ask, What tools do you own, and which are your favorites? I have a radial arm saw, and i like it. I don't normally us it for cut offs. I have a Black & Decker mitre saw, It does every thing that i want it to do. It is far from the best, but i have gotten along very well. If you have some favorite brand names, thats where i would start. By the way, Welcome to the forum !
I have a Makita 12" Compound Slider and I love it! I like it for many reasons:
1) I can set it up veru quickly in my shop and if need be take it with me.
2) Cuts 6x6's with ease. Make sure you use it on a 20 amp circuit though 15 amps trip to easy.
I build a lot of decks and do lots of mitres on site so it really helps me.
Do not waste your time on lasers in my opinion they are a waste of money.
Do spend some money on a good stand to set it on. You wont be sorry.
1) I can set it up veru quickly in my shop and if need be take it with me.
2) Cuts 6x6's with ease. Make sure you use it on a 20 amp circuit though 15 amps trip to easy.
I build a lot of decks and do lots of mitres on site so it really helps me.
Do not waste your time on lasers in my opinion they are a waste of money.
Do spend some money on a good stand to set it on. You wont be sorry.
Canuckgal,
I toiled over the Mak 12" and Bosch 12" for some time before going with the Mak. I have nothing but good to say about my 10" Bosch, and I really like the micro miter adjust on the 12" Bosch.
However both tools are used on the job and at the time I had 3 ham fisted knuckle dragging gorillas working for me. The feed back I got from the tool/repair shops I deal with said the Bosch 12" was too sensitive for muscling about, e.g., over tightening levers, plastic parts, (like the miter micro adjust) snap off too easy. As a shop tool too sweet. The Mak's more suited for site work, less things to break.
I toiled over the Mak 12" and Bosch 12" for some time before going with the Mak. I have nothing but good to say about my 10" Bosch, and I really like the micro miter adjust on the 12" Bosch.
However both tools are used on the job and at the time I had 3 ham fisted knuckle dragging gorillas working for me. The feed back I got from the tool/repair shops I deal with said the Bosch 12" was too sensitive for muscling about, e.g., over tightening levers, plastic parts, (like the miter micro adjust) snap off too easy. As a shop tool too sweet. The Mak's more suited for site work, less things to break.
Here's how I worked around the footprint my RAS created. Built it into my counter. 2 150 lp. ball bearing drawer slides and she works great. I can pull it out as needed, push it back when not in use and swing the arm around almost flush to the back wall, taking up minimal space. Counter top on one side serves as an extension, while a roller on the other works well when needed.
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Bosch 10" slider. I have the cheaper verison (was about $380 when I bought it 3 years ago). Never regretted it.
Bought a King to start with and returned it within a week.
Do Bosch make any *bad* tools?
Bought a King to start with and returned it within a week.
Do Bosch make any *bad* tools?
Great idea, Bill... The footprint is (I think) one of the big issues with RAS's in small shops. Craftsmans are on Craigslist up here at least once a week for $125 - $175 each.
TwoSkies57,
My set up is somewhat similar to yours in that I have a drill press to the left, which I often use as a table extension to the radial and a bench top to the right. My Radial is on a stand with wheels and about 6" above the bench top.
When I do slide stock right I use a mini roller on the bench to take the weight of the stock.
My set up is somewhat similar to yours in that I have a drill press to the left, which I often use as a table extension to the radial and a bench top to the right. My Radial is on a stand with wheels and about 6" above the bench top.
When I do slide stock right I use a mini roller on the bench to take the weight of the stock.
Great idea, Bill... The footprint is (I think) one of the big issues with RAS's in small shops. Craftsmans are on Craigslist up here at least once a week for $125 - $175 each.
Jim...
You're absolutely right, the footprint is a big issue. but once that is overcome its a great tool to have in the shop. the Craftsman I have reviewed fair to middlin for the most part.
I took the time to actually set the thing up (about 3 and a half hours) and I've never had any trouble since. ..for a buck 25, its a good investment IMHO...
Ron..
I picked up a roller just for that purpose. Just havn't gotten around to making a bracket
for it and to mount it to the side of the cabinet/counter..
Jim...
You're absolutely right, the footprint is a big issue. but once that is overcome its a great tool to have in the shop. the Craftsman I have reviewed fair to middlin for the most part.
I took the time to actually set the thing up (about 3 and a half hours) and I've never had any trouble since. ..for a buck 25, its a good investment IMHO...
Ron..
I picked up a roller just for that purpose. Just havn't gotten around to making a bracket
for it and to mount it to the side of the cabinet/counter..
Hi Guys
Foot print is a big deal with them,,I use a flip up table ( door) that's about 3ft x 8ft to hold the stock, but I do like to roll it out side of the shop from time to time when I need to use it for LONG stock or wide stock, it will rip just over 24" wide that comes in very handy on the big stock...(4' x 8' plywood)
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Foot print is a big deal with them,,I use a flip up table ( door) that's about 3ft x 8ft to hold the stock, but I do like to roll it out side of the shop from time to time when I need to use it for LONG stock or wide stock, it will rip just over 24" wide that comes in very handy on the big stock...(4' x 8' plywood)
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I think a lot of it depends on what you do and where you tend to work. If you do most of your work in a shop then other options may suit you better than a slider. I have found that my mitre saw (off brand from Harbor Freight) has seen more use than any other tool I have ever owned. This is partly due to the fact that I replaced every stick of trim, baseboard, chair rail, door/window frames in a 4,000 square foot house and that requires a LOT of mitre cuts.
Now the bad part about the sliders is that there is a little bit of natural slop in nearly all of them due to the slides. Those that don't slide seem to be a lot more stiff but limit your ability to cut some of the larger trim pieces if you don't have a table saw (which I didn't at the time). Being someone who is skill saw challenged, I can't cut a straight line unless I have a guide clamp, I prefer the mitre saw because it can cut straight, AND I don't have to get down on the ground or bend down at all which is my worst enemy.
Now the bad part about the sliders is that there is a little bit of natural slop in nearly all of them due to the slides. Those that don't slide seem to be a lot more stiff but limit your ability to cut some of the larger trim pieces if you don't have a table saw (which I didn't at the time). Being someone who is skill saw challenged, I can't cut a straight line unless I have a guide clamp, I prefer the mitre saw because it can cut straight, AND I don't have to get down on the ground or bend down at all which is my worst enemy.
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