G'day @brucew268 , and welcome to the forum.

What is the diameter of the cutter?
A 2" cut on a 1/4" shank would be stretching its limits, I feel...
Are you able to use a 1/2" shank cutter?

 

G'day @brucew268 , and welcome to the forum.

What is the diameter of the cutter?
A 2" cut on a 1/4" shank would be stretching its limits, I feel...
Are you able to use a 1/2" shank cutter?

Thank you, I haven't touched a router in years, so been doing lots of re-acquainting myself with routing.

The cutter is also 1/4". I thought that 2" was likely a bit long on a 1/4" since hardly anyone had them. Yes, I can find some 1/2" x 2" CL that aren't eye-wateringly dear, so maybe need to go that route. They all have cutter and shaft both 1/2". I wonder if heat will be a problem with a 1/2" cutter in oak doing all the stock removal (as I don't have a bandsaw).

I'm still curious about the use of a 1" CL for a 1.6" thick application, would have thought it not possible or maybe some burning long the shank?

 

PS.. I had previously watched and liked that video.
A handy way to make circles for lazy susans, etc..

 

Welcome to the forum @brucew268

 

Welcome. I would use a half inch shank. But I'd rough cut the circle on a jig saw, keeping 1/8th or so outside the marked circle. I would also make a circle jig exactly the correct size with perfected and smooth edges (mdf). I'd tape this down with several strips of double stick tape, then use the trim bit with top mounted bearing, to clean up and smooth the edges of your final cut. I personally would hesitate to cut the circle on a 2 inch block with a router. You can do it making multiple, multiple passes using a plunge router to increase the depth of cut a little at a time. But to do that properly will require placing centering hole in the block, or attaching a small block with center hole with tape so you can use a circle cutter.

Much easier to make a perfect circle jig, trim with a bandsaw, then use a trim bit (1/2 inch shank) to perfect the circle and produce the final edge. Put effort into the jig to reduce risks to the final block.

 

I've been planning to use the plunge router in steps, but will have a think about a template and guide bearing as an option.

 

Turns out my max Overall Length in my plunge router is 96mm without bottoming out in the collet. Most are 100-102mm OL, so that rather limits my options for a direct plunge cut without a template 3x the cost of a straight bit with bearing and template.

 

But then if I added a universal base plate, which appears to bolt right over the existing base plate, that would add 8mm to the overall collet distance off the workpiece... which would relax my options a little. Right?

 

Hi Bruce, when using any other base plate, you should remove the existing base plate, IMO....