Shouldn't be a problem if your router has a plunge base. I don't know aanything about your model.

Test your cuts on a piece of identical scrap. Test, check, reset depth setting, recut...repeat until you get the desired results. That's how I do it.

If you are going to cut a pattern like pictured, you will probable need to create some sort of jig or spacer so you can make your cuts accurately.

Hope this helps.
Mike

 

Most plunge routers have depth stops on them. Set yours to what you want and it will make that same cut every time you plunge it. When you are setting up for this I would suggest you have boards of equal thickness around the one you are working on to keep the router more stable. Do you have a method in mind for the spacing of the depressions?

 

I am thinking two cuts similar to the one across the image.

 

Dave, if you check my uploads there is a very simple jig that will take care of the distance from the sides and the ends. You can get the hole to hole spacing by cutting spacer bars on a TS and inserting one each time you make a hole. Actually it is a sketch of a jig.

 

Actually, this cut with this bit is not going to happen. It has a half inch shank and the Bosch Router won't accept half inch bits. I have a Triton router in my table but no way am I pulling that out to do it.........lol

 

Another Triton......?



Time for a second Triton....VBG.

As you have discovered, one you get serious, you may find the need for a 1/2" shank plunge router......

 

Use a bowl/dish bit. You can order it on line or find a wood working store. You probably will need a pattern for your cut. Good luck.

 

Just make sure you adjust the router speed for a router bit of this diameter. Max rpm should have been provided with the bit.

And do not remove all the material at one time. Make several passes and a light final pass for the smoothest cut.

 

being that i come from an extensive fishing background, having a little lip like in the picture in the bowl would frustrate me to no end. the hooks would constantly be getting hung up on that. i would keep them just a little bit more shallow so the depression transitions smoothly to the table surface. that way you can just slide the hooks out without them getting stuck or catching a point in the finger tip!

 

That is the general idea, will give it a miss on this one but my try again on another if I get another router that will take a 1/2 inch piece.

 

Just an update, took the plunge so to speak and removed the triton from the bench, did a few test cuts and made the cuts I wanted to the tying bench so I was very happy indeed.

This got me a thinking about a recess for the pedestal base for the vise. What I have done is to trace the base of the vise onto a piece of board, now I will set up scrap around the template for the router to move on but I am not sure what type of bit to use to make the plunge cut.

 

If you're using the scrap wood as the template then a pattern bit would be suitable with the bearing at the shaft end of the cutter which then runs around the template.