Shark guard for Powermatic

Give 'em a holler to see if it's for yours

 

Powermatic 63 blade guard

Cliff
As Tom suggested try Sharkguard.


Powermatic 63

 

I looked at the parts diagrams for both the 63 and 64. They look like the same saw with different extensions and stands. It looks like Guard/Splitter/Anti-kickback pawls assembly for Powermatic's Model 63 Artisan saw and the model 64 Contractor Saw are the same design and may be interchangeable with no or little modifications. (Can't tell measurements from an exploded view parts diagram.)

The parts on the Model 63 do not look like the are readily available, but they are available for the model 64.

I have a splitter/guard/pawl assembly here that would work if you modified the mounting holes to work with the mounts on your saw. $5+ what shipping would cost to get to you. I picked it up used for $5, so I'm not making anything off it. I picked it up for the in-cases. That one is just sitting here collecting dust. For $5, it's something you wouldn't be afraid to mod.

Or do you want to go DYI, for something that just works for straight up, which is 95% of your cuts? Make a zero-clearance insert, but extend the cut out the back of the insert. In the extended cut you make a spliiter, 1/8" thick. Run a piece of 1/8" thick metal stock through the slot, low enough to clear the bottom of the insert + 3/4 inch, high enough to clear the blade when all the way up + 1 inch, making sure the stock clears the back of the blade.

Bend a tab 90 degree angle at the bottom end at 3/4". Drill two holes for mounting screws. At 1/4 above the blade, near the front edge, drill a hole. Near the rear edge back accrossed from that hole and 1/4" higher (clearing 1/4" from the outside edges) drill another hole. Put roll pins in those 2 holes. Cut a slot in a piece of 1/4 acryllic or plexiglass the width and length of the splitter top. The plexiglass slot slides over the splitter, rests on the first roll pin and under the second.

For mine on crown cuts (where the stock travels over the blade, I make zero-clearance inserts, with the same cut, but use a piece of hardwood the same thickness as the slot and make it 1/2" to 3/4" tall. That is enough to keep the kerf open, but be able to travel over it.

You can see your cut, there is a splitter, makes a good guard. Not as good as a riving knife, but it works and is safe.

Hope that helps.

 

Ask on this forum; owwm.org/
Rob

 

Ask on the OWWM dot org forum
Rob

 

Rob- LOL. Are you saying since I'm a member of both forums, that I could repeat myself answering him there? Albiet, someone "there" might have one laying around that they may want to part with.

 

Mike, I assume that if the OP knew of the existence of owwm he would not have asked on a router forum. I would be surprised if somebody there could not come up with an original splitter/guard.If a few more people check out the site so much the better, it hurts me when I see questions here, concerning purchase of shiny new drill press or table saw when there is so much great quality old iron being almost given away these days.
Rob

 

One can get by without a fork lift and loading dock, but, a folding engine hoist and a pallet jack can help deal with heavier machines.

When I was router shopping, I was looking at the current tables saws, and other machines at the box stores.
Well, just me, they seems less then a good value.

If you can get a 220v line into your work space, older heavier machine could be an option to consider.
3 phase motors are getting easier to deal with, newer devices such as the VFD, cost are going down.

 

5 x 220v 1 phase circuits (30 amp and 50 amp) there now. (Welders, sun tanning bed and air compressor.)

3 phase for me would mean a phase converter. But the 4.5 HP motor is both 220v 1 phase or 3 phase. Having it shipped wired 220v 1 phase.

That "diesel" cherry picker is rated for 2000 pounds.

 

Is the motor both 1 and 3phase? That would be very handy!

Often I see 3phase used equipment going for enough less, that a phase converter of some type is not a huge expense.
Sites like the "practical machinist" have forums on converters, where as, if you can solder, one can be built for little cost.
It is getting more economical to use 3 phase motors these days.
The newer VFD drivers have some nice features, such as soft start, but the price of those go up on over 5 hp models.

 

I posted regularly in the transformer section of Practical Machinist, advocating the use of second hand industrial VFDs rather than new consumer grade models from China.I have purchased new in box drives for as little as 1 dollar on ebay, and even a 20hp brand new for 20 dollars because I mostly need 600volt models and there is little demand for them. Building a rotary phase converter takes less than 50 dollars worth of components and less than an hours work unless you get real fancy with special enclosures digital read-outs etc. With the advent of the internet it has become very easy to obtain information on building your own. When I started 30 years ago the technology was fiercely protected with all kinds of published gobble-DE-**** and obscured part numbers.
I consider it highly unlikely that there is now suddenly a motor that is both single and three phase after more than a hundred years of development. It is almost certain that it will be a poly phase motor with phase conversion built in to the supply. There are variable speed inexpensive lathes available these days that have the VFD built in as an example, and capacitor start, capacitor run, motors are actually 2 phase motors running on single phase. I would be interested to know more about this 4.5hp machine.
Rob

 

I am (over-)confident enough about electricity to be dangerous. Actually enough as a carpenter that would be tasked helping out electricians or to wire in electrical for remodels.

Don't know anything about 3-phase power other than I don't have here and would need a rotary phase converter to supply it. I just never had to play with it before.

<<Optional 4.5 HP Baldor 220V 1 or 3 phase>>
I don't really know. This option could be 2 different motors... Or a 3 phase 220v motor with something(?), but why would they list that as 3 phase then? All I know about that is what I told them I wanted/needed- 220v 1 phase. That is what I have access to and that is how mine is coming.