Peter, either jig will work just as long as the clamps can clamp down on the uneven edged wood. Just move the fence to the blade until you have a cut that cuts through the wood in one pass.

 

If I have two uneven edges how to I go about presenting one edge to the saw blade so I get a straight cut line. I suppose if the ends of the boards are cut off square I could use a large set square, something like a teacher black board set square to draw a straight line over the board. Then line the board up in the jig so the line will be cut by the blade?
Any other ways to do it?
Cheers.

 

Growing up we cut a lot of lumber. Many boards with "live" edges. To get a straight edge. We took a long board and plunge cut 12" slots in it every so often and attached a metal bar underneath to run in the track on our table saw. We then made simple stops and used a home made toggle clamp with a carriage bolt up through the slots.

Just put the board to be cut on top and move the live edge far enough off the board to give you a clean line. Then simply push the jig through. Worked very well. Can't count the number of boards we ran with this jig. Sorry if my description isn't clear. I can try to expand if you have questions...

Andy

 

OK thanks.

 

Here's the one i made--found the plans free online. Doubles as a tapering jig (i just set the last clamp as a stop block. Since it's only 36" long, i usually only straight line up to 48" or so with it. Clamp the rough board to the jig, move the fence so i cut all the way down the unclamped edge, push it through and i've got one straight edge. The opposite edge can then be made parallel without the jig. I've used it for a few years now, and the shortcoming is that the base is narrow for straight-lining wide boards. I just realized the solution is to cut a second base 9" to 12" wide and offset the mount so i've got a little more stability under the rough lumber.

For longer lumber, if you have a long board with a known straight edge (1/2" plywood for example) one can simply screw (one screw at each end should suffice, being sure to stay well clear of the blade path) the rough board to it so that it does not overhang the straight edge. Then run the carrier board along the fence. Once again, you'll have one straight edge to work from, and the other edge can be made parallel from that.

earl

 

Thanks for the input.

 

You really don't need a jig at all. All you need is a long straight edge. I have a piece of "C" shaped Al which is about 12' long. I clamp it to my fence making sure that the board I want to put a straight edge on touches the long straight edge in at least two places from the beginning of the rip all the way through the blade.

 

OK thanks.

 

This might help to create the first straight edge

https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t13781/

Then you just use the tablesaw fence as the guide for the second side... KISS

 

Cheers.

 

You can spend a lot of $$$ on clamps and toggles, etc. but I found a method to build a jig from scraps in my shop for virtually no $$$.

Go to Issy Swan's YouTube site at https://mail.google.com/mail/mu/mp/185/#cv/Inbox/140ca7a14a37209f

His video will give you a step-by-step method of creating a joiner using your table saw to create a straight edge on any board.

Issy has a unique way of making jigs out of scraps that actually work but his theatrics are definetely different. I made this jig and it does the job that I think you are looking for.

Good Luck,
Ken

 

I included the wrong YouTube video in my previous reply however the previous video has a jig that is a bit more complicated than the one I first intended which is:

SIMPLE JIG! turns "Tablesaw" into jointer! - YouTube

This is the one I have built and it does the job for me without the expense of a joiner and additional hardware.

Enjoy,
Ken

 

This jig is like the 3 I made. Been using for years with my Rockwell shop saw. Only difference Is I don't have a fence at the end going perpendicular to the fence edge... I guess they figure that would help push the piece?

Additional tip to that is sometimes I'd turn the jig around, turn the clamps around and hang the clamps over the edge of the jig completely... So that when the jig and workpiece was set up, I would set the blade between the two. (Be careful not to put your blade up too high!!!) Take a small cut... move the work piece back towards the jig, etc.

With the panel saw, no need for them anymore. I just set the work between the rip guide... which is just a guide that holds one end firm... and a material clamp on the opposite side... Using my laser guide to line up the work as I'm clamping.

I might include them with the Rockwell when it goes. Still here...

 

This looks promising.

Tod's Top Tip!

 

Interesting, cheers.

 

I mounted two blocks on a piece of MDF and mounted toggle clamps on the blocks. I ordered extra long spindles from granger toggle clamps from HF

 

OK thanks for that.