If the doors are adjusted towards the center of the cabinet, by how much do they overlap? I think that the Blum hinges have about 1/8" of adjustment which means that they would overlap by about 3/8"? If this is the case, why not cut matching rabbets along the front of one door and the back of the other and let that be a "design feature". I did this on a vanity cabinet - two door and I didn't want a center stile because of access to the plumbing, so I made the doors overlap.

Tom

 

Hello and welcome to the forum. Bluegirl
I really think you could cut a 1/8" off the edge a readjust to fit I doubt anyone would ever notice you did not say what edge treatment you used

 

I agree with John. I have done it more than once. The problem was I miscalculated the width of each door. I mounted the doors on the cabinet, then realized they were too wide, thus creating an overlap.

I used option #2 to fix mine. Now anytime I am mounting doors on cabinets, I go through this ritual to ensure I get a good fit.

Two options:

1) Set the fence on the table saw and rip an ever so slight shaving off the edge of the door that mates to the other one. Do both doors.

2) Run each door edge over the jointer the same number of times.

When you get a good fit, no one will be able to tell without using a ruler and measuring very carefully, and that won't happen.

Good luck, and welcome aboard.
Mike

 

Hey, Debbie; welcome!
Did you make the doors yourself?
You didn't mention whether (or not) they were already stained and finished. I'm guessing they are, as you're at the hanging stage(?)...
You also didn't directly mention whether there's a face frame or if you're mounting them to the gable faces. I took it that they're gable mounted.
If so, I'd suggest buying 1/2 overlay back plates and adj. them as far in as possible; that should gain you at least an 1/8" clearance. (they will however slightly overhang the outside of the cabinet carcass.
The thicker the door edge is the more pronounced the problem of the two arcs interfering with each other. As Mike suggested, rebating the back edge, or angling very slightly inwards (ie the width at the back is slightly reduced from the width at the front) allows the two doors to pass each other before they end up on the flat against the cabinet. I think they call it a 'back bevel' ?

 

Having trouble getting the pic attached(tablet won't allow drag and drop) but it is a frameless cabinet with full overlay doors. Truth be told I have 2 extra doors left over when changes were made to our kitchen reno so since they are gorgeous maple I decided to use them here. If I let up on the mounting screws even just a smidgen I can get the doors to align, but with no leeway. And yes all is finished but the edges are just straight shaker doors. Not keen on cutting the doors just yet.

 

It is a frameless cabinet with full overlay doors. Truth be told I have 2 extra doors left over when changes were made to our kitchen reno so since they are gorgeous maple I decided to use them here. If I let up on the mounting screws even just a smidgen I can get the doors to align, but with no leeway. And yes all is finished but the edges are just straight shaker doors. Not keen on cutting the doors just yet. Good things come to those who wait.

 

It is a frameless cabinet with full overlay doors. Truth be told I have 2 extra doors left over when changes were made to our kitchen reno so since they are gorgeous maple I decided to use them here. If I let up on the mounting screws even just a smidgen I can get the doors to align, but with no leeway. And yes all is finished but the edges are just straight shaker doors. Not keen on cutting the doors just yet. Good things come to those who wait.

 

If the doors have no finish on them and you have the tools to trim to size this is the best thing to do. It will save you time in the future of this project.
I have no idea how many doors we have ordered or received that were the wrong size, we cut them (just a little) all the time.

 

Yes they are finished, just about ready to install. If I do chop 'em down, table saw the best?
Cheers

 

Hi Debbie. Welcome to our little corner of the 'net.

 

Welcome to the forum Debbie.

 

You obviously know exactly what you're doing Debbie, so my only other suggestion is to just bite the bullet and joint/route/rip a hair off one of the doors on the center facing edge...if it were me I'd put a backfacing bevel on both of them, and then just refinish the edge(s).
Good luck!

 

you da man Dan....

 

Welcome, Debbie...

Yes...recess the hinges...did the same thing for a shoe cubby I put in the front hall. I had finished the doors with edging and I also did not want to cut them...

I added magnetic push-push to keep the centers aligned...

 

I agree with Nick - I have just had that problem on a framed mirror which was to be the door on a shallow cabinet - it needed to fit as a full overlay all round on the carcass edge, which was 22 mm thick, and recessing the hinge plate did the trick.
Oh, and welcome to the forum, Debbie
Rob

 

Debbie; Yes. But you could take them outside, with a garden chair, a glass of white wine, and a block plane. Just sayin'...

 

Welcome to the RF Debbie! And I ran into the same problem, one time, and I used Mikes #2 option. I used my router table as a edge planer, and made equal multiple passes, until I got it down to the width I needed. And I've asked many to find a "flaw" in my doors. And no one has ever noticed one stile is narrower then the other.

 

Welcome Debbie. I think the table saw is the best bet for shaving an edge slightly. A jointer is also good, but not everyone has one. The fence alignment is really important in this case. Blade at an exact 90, take the time to make sure it is. I use a Wixey digital angle finder to set the blade to exactly 90. It costs just $30 bucks or so, but it enables exact angles of blade to table. You're going to be taking off a hair more than 1/16th off each door, so be very careful setting the fence to blade distance at the front edge of the blade. I'd use a really sharp blade for this. Measure twice, cut once.

 

Welcome Debbie. Girl, you're over-thinking this. It's a problem everybody has once in a while. Yes, you can come up with some creative solution to avoid cutting your doors, but the simplest way to get back on task is to set your tablesaw blade a few degrees off vertical and shave a tiny bit off each door like others have suggested. It won't hurt much; Just do it! And Welcome to the Forum!

 

Thanks for the encouragement all! I bit the bullet and ran them thru the jointer and all is well. It stressed me out that I only had 1 chance at this. Just need to sand and stain the edges and away we go. My other half says the cabinet looks classy. Yay. Good to have all the experts in my back pocket. The block plane and wine scenario would also work and be kinda fun too.
Thanks and cheers.