Router Forums banner

Wall covering options in shop

4.7K views 33 replies 12 participants last post by  RainMan 2.0  
#1 · (Edited)
Guys I apologize in advance , as I think I started a thread like this in the past , and maybe this subject has been beat to death already .

But I have to make a decision soon as what to put on my shops ceiling and walls .
Drywall has really increased in price , so other options that didn’t look that attractive in the past cost wise , are looking like a viable option now .
Here are a few options I’m looking at .
My shop is detached 22x26x10 garage .

I’m liking the first one , the 7/16” OSB . Probably not to code , as I suspect we require 5/8” sheet rock like in the last pic .
But I’ve seen many detached garages in town with OSB.

Another thing to consider would be containing the noise to the shop as best I can , as I’d prefer not to annoy my neighbours with a spindle running for hours at a time .
I suspect drywall would dampen noise the best , but I’m liking the first option the best .
I’m going to use Roxul insulation in the walls , and seeing as there 2/6 walls , that may help .
 

Attachments

#2 ·
My vote is the spruce plywood (more expensive) - prettier than OSB and 1/2" would be plenty stout.
Your 2x6 walls would have no trouble holding that. And I'm just curious as to
what weight differential between the OSB and the Plywood - I know that it does not matter
just wondering...
I wonder for that much wall covering - could you get a bit of a discount since ordering so much.
I would ask a local cabinet maker where he orders from or even see if he could get you a better price than HD.
 
#4 ·
Bulk would probably help a small percentage , like at Windsor Plywood . I know the owner well and will be checking with him.
I’m loving the Spruce plywood myself , and agree it would be more stout , and look better than OSB .
Then again anything looks better than OSB . The walls and ceiling will be painted white .
Sometimes at Home Hardware they have a pile of something in bulk sitting in the middle isle . A sort of once in a life time deal . I should keep my eye out , but probably never happen when I need it .
 
#3 ·
I'm with Randy... Plywood. Also, if painting, it will look better. I say OSB as floor material only. It's ugly. But as long as you're covering the walls, I would hope you're gonna insulate. While minimal, it too, will help with noise, and would kinda be silly to cover the walls, if you're not gonna insulate? (Yup. You knew SOMEONE would go there. Might as well be me! *giggle* )
 
#6 ·
It makes sense, Rick. Why bother to put up the walls if you don't insulate? Not to mention, one without the other is like a grilled cheese without the cheese.

Ken said insulating was easier than puttin up the walls... just sayin.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Yes as much as I hate to say the word , I’m insulating . I’m going to blow in the stuff in the ceiling, and use Roxul on the walls.


I just had a thought . I know a guy with a bay in the same building as WP. I could just get the guys to use their forklift at WP , and have them move it from their bay to the other one for now . If I go with bulk that is
 
#11 ·
Another thing to consider would be containing the noise to the shop as best I can , as I’d prefer not to annoy my neighbours with a spindle running for hours at a time.
You won't hear your spindle running even if you don't insulate. You will, however, hear the bit cutting and the DC. If you're doing cuts that are many hours then you'll probably be doing 3D with small tapered ball nose bits and those should be fairly low noise.

David
 
#12 ·
Rick,

Looks like I am the only one for OSB. I did this for budget reasons. Saved the money to buy better tools. I put it on the walls and drywall on ceiling. When I added my West Wing, I put OSB on walls and ceiling. Painted everything white. Once I put up pegboard, shelves, and cabinets it does not look bad. Definitely insulate before any wall you decide to put up. I also screwed the panels to the wall. This has saved my bacon several times when I needed to remove a panel.

Just my opinion.

Frank
 
#14 ·
Not so Frank. I did walls and ceiling in OSB too and also painted it all white after. The white paint really brightened it up.

Rick putting insulation in will do more to deaden sound than any type of wall board with the exception of donnacona wall board. Sound transmission is affected by the density of the material the sound strikes. The denser the material the better the transmission factor is and vice versa. If you are really worried about sound transmission through the walls then put a layer of donnacona on them first and then your OSB or drywall. Plus put some heavy drapes over any windows. You wouldn't be able to hear a cherry bomb go off inside if you did that. The donnacona would also increase the R factor by a bit.

I thought about going with drywall but when you have to swing boards around it would be very easy to bang them into a wall or ceiling and drywall doesn't hold up well to that. Plus the OSB allows to to put nails or screws here and there to hang stuff on. By the time you paint it and put some pegboard up in spots you won't even notice that it's OSB and has a textured surface. What code says about using it I don't know. I didn't bother to check.
 
#17 ·
I actually like that look . I’m thinking white paint would help brighten it up though .
What I’m liking about OSB or plywood , is the fact that I’ll be using screws to secure it , and I can always remove a section if necessary
 
#19 ·
I am 3, with Chuck and Frank. I have done it in shops both walls and ceiling,painted white and it is the way to go for hanging tools and shelves,and running surface wiring, like I did in my shop, which is the only way to go in my opinion. I have even painted the chip board before i installed it, at least with the prime coat, it sucks up paint like you wouldn't believe. Easier to do on a saw horse than overhead. then just requires touch up on the cuts and screw heads. The OSB will help too with hanging the duct work for the DC.
That DC you are buying is a screamer, so you are going to need some sound deadening.
The nice part about surface wiring is you don't have to fight the wiring when you put in the insulation. How thick is the insulation? Full 5 1/2"?
HErb
 
#20 · (Edited)
My electrician tried to talk me into surface wiring , but it bothered me for some reason .
Wall insulation will be 5.5” .



I just came from Windsor Plywood , and they kind of have me convinced to go with 3/4” Peanut Birch Plywood . Apparently they’re telling me that it’s been a popular choice for inside garage walls .
Strangely, the 1/2 and 3/4 are the same price , so I guess it’s 3/4” .
45 bucks a sheet .
Because of Covid , the prices have gone up , and he’s concerned it could go up a lot more soon , as the mills are half staffed and not running at full capacity.

I’m tempted to drywall the ceiling and use the peanut birch on the walls
 
#21 ·
Hey wake up Rick, Who cares what is popular??? $45. against $16 OSB or $29. plywood?? two layers of OSB would be cheaper. And you better hire a lift to put 3/4 Ply on the ceiling. But I guess if you can afford that, then,you can afford the extra labor. Even a layer of drywall and OSB over it would be cheaper. Whew sometimes you amaze me Rick. Think the added amount for 1 1/2" fasteners too.
Herb
 
#22 ·
Hey wake up Rick, Who cares what is popular??? $45. against $16 OSB or $29. plywood?? two layers of OSB would be cheaper. And you better hire a lift to put 3/4 Ply on the ceiling. But I guess if you can afford that, then,you can afford the extra labor. Even a layer of drywall and OSB over it would be cheaper. Whew sometimes you amaze me Rick.
Herb
I amaze myself sometimes Herb :lol:
 
#31 ·
OSB and hire a lift for the ceiling. Choose, wiring inside or out of the wall...just pick one and get going. You're acting like what an Episcopalian priest once said about the church nickname, the frozen chosen. I found that there is a plastic flexible "fabric" used in motels to line drapes that really cancels noise and has insulative qualities as well. Found it in a fabric store. Heavy drapery material plus that liner and you could have a pack of howling coyotes in there an your neighbors wouldn't hear them.

When I had my garage ceiling insulated and drywalled, I had them put in a4x12 sheets of drywall over R38 insulation. Left me with far fewer joints to mud. Practically had to force them to rent a lift, but it changed the job from an ordeal to done in a couple of hours, fewer joints and no backaches. Instead of 3 guys (2 holding, one screwing sheets in place), two guys got it done fast.

The lipstick trick. Using a lift, they put lipstick around the edges of the five light fixtures, lifted the drywall into place, and the lipstick marked the outlet locations. They lowered the lift, cut those spots out precisely and then screwed it in place. Because it is a garage, they used 5/8ths drywall for fire resistance. HEAVY is an understatement.

Looking back, I've put up a fair amount of drywall in the last 10 years without the lipstick trick, and I was never able to measure just right so always had a couple of unwanted gaps to patch.

Last thing. No two-outlet boxes. At least 4 per box, or 6 with each pair on a different color coded circuit. This is especially nice because with a 6 gang every third stud, you can avoid overloading circuits. And 20 amp 110 v circuits, none of the mangy 15 amp piddly diddly circuits. My office is set up with only 4 gang and I wish I'd put in 6 gang because all the electronic, heating, lighting, AC devices fill the outlets fast.

With that CNC and doing some of what the Polish Eagle guy is doing, you could make a fair income from that machine, and have a lot of freedom. You probably don't have to be particularly zesty to do it either.
 
#32 · (Edited)
You're acting like what an Episcopalian priest once said about the church nickname, the frozen chosen.
:lol:
Never heard that one before . I want to talk to admin and get my name changed to “The Frozen Chosen” now lol




Last thing. No two-outlet boxes. At least 4 per box, or 6 with each pair on a different color coded circuit. This is especially nice because with a 6 gang every third stud, you can avoid overloading circuits. And 20 amp 110 v circuits, none of the mangy 15 amp piddly diddly circuits. My office is set up with only 4 gang and I wish I'd put in 6 gang because all the electronic, heating, lighting, AC devices fill the outlets fast.
.
I found that out the hard way . Single gang outlets are a pita sometimes, and I’m with you as all boxes should be 2 gang , 20 amp , and separate circuits on each wall
 
#33 ·