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What would be a good begginer set of router bits?

13K views 51 replies 20 participants last post by  stuartwatson  
#1 ·
I just got my router. I have never had one before. It did not come with any bits.

I will be making a dog stand. I want to use it to cut out the place for the bowls and perhaps fancy up the edges and make them not so sharp.

I later plan to build some kitchen cabinets. I do not plan on making any bowls etc. I am in the midst of remodeling my kitchen and may need/want to use it to do some trim type work.

What should I look for in a starter set of bits. What bits should I make sure I get, wich ones should I be less inclined to get? What does a good starter set of bits consist of?
 
#4 ·
Hi Matt

They are about the same,the Elite is a bit slow to ship and high shipping rates from CD,the ebay items are great for price but the shipping can kill a good deal, the MLCS has free shipping and quick to ship..

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#6 ·
My wife got me a setof bits

My wife got me a set of bits as an early birthday gift.

It Includes 1" classic, 1-1/4" Chamfer, 1-1/16" roundover, 7/8" roundover, 3/4" cove, 1/2" Double Flute straight, 5/8" Hinge Mortising, 1/2" V groove, 1/2"flush trim, 1/2" dovetail, 1/4" shear double flute straight, 1/2" radius.

I can understand most of them but I have some question about a few of them.

What would you use the 1/2 " radius bit for?

How is the "mortising" bit used?

How are the straight flute bits used? Can they be used to cut out a circle? (like for a circular hole)
 
#8 ·
My wife got me a set of bits as an early birthday gift.

It Includes 1" classic, 1-1/4" Chamfer, 1-1/16" roundover, 7/8" roundover, 3/4" cove, 1/2" Double Flute straight, 5/8" Hinge Mortising, 1/2" V groove, 1/2"flush trim, 1/2" dovetail, 1/4" shear double flute straight, 1/2" radius.

I can understand most of them but I have some question about a few of them.

What would you use the 1/2 " radius bit for?

How is the "mortising" bit used?

How are the straight flute bits used? Can they be used to cut out a circle? (like for a circular hole)
1/2" radius what profile? The mortising bit is used to inset hinges among other uses. The straight bits can be used to cut circles, grooves for shelves, rabbets, and other things.
 
#7 ·
Just got my elite 66 piece bit set the other day and they took 10 days total from Canada to San Jose Ca.
Only tried the 3/4" straight bit so far and I don't see any difference from it and my bosch bit of the same size so far, even when I took a big bite of oak with it it went quick and clean. But then that was the first cut with it.
 
#10 ·
Here is a link to the set

http:// www. fingerhut.com/ProductGroup.aspx?offergroupxid=106177&cmQID=CIt3xjj5dXBHsEcg8ChAhG2VkwLod68GGVsausIoVL0Q8srkDxR8cs+ign8st5NqBHWM

I had a chance to use them to work on the dog food (& water) table. ( I will post a pic of this when I can.)

I tried to freehand the circular holes for the dishes. Needless to say they are not very circular but they will work-when the dishes are in their holes yo will not see my error. I also used the roundover bit on the circles and on the edges of the table.

A piece of the board must of been a knot and it kicked out a small chunk of wood making an indentation. I rounded it off with the roundover bit. It gives the table some "character."

I did try out the router with the cheap bits I got first.

I enjoyed using it and am planning already to make another dog dish stand for our other dog to replace the one I made earlier before I got the router.
 
#11 ·
Let' see if I can post a picture...

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These are the bits my wife purchased for me.

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This is the stand as it is now, unfinished and waiting for the wood filler to dry for the second sanding.

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Here is the dog stand before assembly. Quite a simple design.

And

Here is the previous one I made before I purchsed the router.

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#13 ·
I did use one of the straight bits to cut out the hole for dishes. I did this freehand. That is why the holes are not round.

Thanks for the info on the radius bit. I doubt if I will use it much. The roundover may get a workout along with the straight bits.
 
#14 ·
Hello, I have also just got my first router and I am new to routers. My issue is that I am doing work to my home and want to keep the moulding the same through the house with the existing moulding. Does anyone have suggestions on how i can duplicate the moulding with my hand held router? i have no bits and am looking to start collecting my wood working tools...
 
#15 ·
Hi Tweek, welcome to the forum:)

Depending on what era the molding is from it may be kind of a trick to duplicate it. Should be able to get close though. You may wind up having to combine profiles from two or three different bits. I will say that in my opinion molding is easier and safer handled on a table with plenty of support. Doing it hand held you need a way to clamp it securely, routers do like to throw things around.
 
#24 ·
Hi Bob, yes I saw this link in your earlier post on the thread. It looks like a nice set...but I think I'm going to give the Elite 66 piece 1/2 " shank a try. I am in Canada, so shipping shouldn't be a problem and the price can't be beat.
 
#25 ·
#26 ·
Sometimes you can get router bit sets from Harbor Freight Tools. They are cheap but you get what you pay for. I think for someone starting out it might be Ok but for the long run I think the whiteside has the best router for the money. This is only my own opinion but I have a few of these bits and they work great.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Couple of schools of thought here. I'm a believer that just starting out a set makes sense as it provides a variety of profiles to experiment with in addition to needed bits; straight, roundover, etc. I know when I just started I had no idea which bit did what so buying a bit for a specific job was kind of a crap shoot. If you haven't got it, you can't try it kind of thing.
Looking at it from an economic standpoint, bits by the set running $1.65 per this example and individual bit costing an average of $10 (assuming) the breakeven on this kit would be using 11 of the 66 bits.
Just another opinion, no shortage of those:dirol:
 
#29 ·
Hi

Just my 2 cents.. :)
You can have to many router bits..
You can't use what you don't have on hand, many router bits can be used for many jobs not just one,,with the 66 pcs. set it would take you 66 days to use them all.

I also suggest you get the 1/4" shank size for your 1st. set, in time you will want to get more of the bigger bits and that's the time to get the 1/2" shank size..
Most of the bigger bits will set you back a ton of money like the solid carb.bits that will not come in most sets or the cabinet doors bits, that's the time to take a hard look at the price and buy the best you can find...to a point..you don't want to go over the deep end if you are going to use them now and than or a one time job..

Most of the lower price bits will do a great job but on the other hand if you are going to use them day in and day out buy the high ends ones for sure.. :)

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#30 ·
I'm just wondering...why do you recommend the 1/4" shank as a first set?
When I've browsed the forums I've got the impression that 1/2" shank bits are more stable.
Are they more difficult to handle?
From Elite the 1/4 and 1/2" sets are the same price.
BTW...they are $119 on eBay if you "Buy Now", rather than bid. Bids start at $109.
With shipping and tax (inside Canada at least) it comes to $151.00
 
#39 ·
They're here! Just got my Elite 66 piece set delivered. C$151 including shipping and taxes.
66...that's a lotta bits!
Hopefully I'll be creating some saw dust this weekend...and if I'm lucky there'll be some useful bits of wood left over too!
 
#40 ·
Most of all my work is kitchen cabinets doors and trim millwork.

If you're going to make you're own doors and I know you will.. You will need a cabinet door set, if you're going for the shaker door style then you need the 3/4 rail & stile cutter, if you decide on raised panel doors then you need a 3-1/2" diameter raised panel bit with backcutter, if you decide on raised panel doors then get the 3 pc set. If you're making drawers and doors just get the 5-Pc advanced cabinet door set from Freud, if you want to make very high quality drawer boxes then go with the dovetail bits, I mostly use the 1/2 14 deg bit for all my dovetails joints for drawer making.

If you want to make your own cabinet crown moldings then you need the architectural millwork bits, I like the look of wide 5 1/2 moldings but it requires some tricky setups with featherboards and guides on the router table to make the upper and lower cuts perfect, but once you master it then you will want to do all the rooms in crown:D.

Other bits you're going need are straight bits 1/4 3/8 1/2 5/8 3/4, 1" cut flush trim bit with a bearing, I also use a 3/4 Roman Ogee, this is like 5 bits in one by changing the height of the bit it will give you different profiles so it's one of the best bits you will ever buy.

Sorry if this is confusing but once you get into kitchen projects you will get the
hang of it.

Cheers
Glen
 
#45 ·
Saiyoot, Whiteside is always top rated and I am sure you will be pleased with your purchase. Here are a couple of tips that apply to all brands of bits:

1. Never keep your bits in a box where they can bump each other as this will cause nicks and chips in the carbide. There are many plans for bit storage but a simple solution is to drill or rout holes in a board that will fit in your storage area. See photo.

2. Before using a bit with a bearing on it always make sure the set screws are tight and that the bearing spins freely. New bits are often shipped with the screws loose.

3. Clean off any resin or gum that builds up on your bits as this will cause burning on your wood. A small brass brush or tooth brush with a solvent works great for this, don't use a steel wire brush as it can damage the brazing that holds the carbide to the bit.

4. Keep your bits sharp. You can touch up a cutting edge with a diamond hone but expecially for expensive bits it is worth having them professionally resharpened.
 

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