I use Titebond III (the green bottle cap) for just about all my projects. It has the longest working time and yet sets up in 45 minutes. This glue is highly water resistant so it is a good choice for out door projects too.

 

I agree with Mike, Titebond III, for most things!

 

Went to do my Friday morning town run around chores and I stopped in Home Depot. With a bottle each in my hands and said - 'I bet the answer from the Router guys will be the green' so 'sprung' for it.

Thanks for the confirmation of anther "good decision":laugh:

 

Yellow glue by Franklin from their commercial line..
that's the company that makes Titebond...

costs about half of what Titebond does...

 

costs about half of what Titebond does...

Nope - 16oz bottle was $7.49 vs $5.49 (of course, plus The State of Taxes, New York's 7% in my county). I'll probably pick up a small bottle of PVA as well, JIC.

Again, thanks, folks

 

Yellow PVA glue for all woodworking tasks.

2 part epoxy for other gluing jobs.

 

Titebond III is the only glue I use for my work. Well other then CNA for intarsia work. In my opinion, you made a good choice.

 

I use different glues for different things. Titebond 3 for many things. I also like Weldbond and it dries clear. I've used Probond and it is very good. Tried resourcinol and didn't have good success with it (powder form mixed with water). I use polyurethane or fibreglass resin (the auto body stuff) when maximum water resistance is needed.

For gluing to very porous materials or to melamine I use Franklin's Melamine Glue. Excellent holding power. For gluing plugs where you don't want to see a glue line I use Lee Valley's fish glue. It stays water soluble forever so a little wipe gets rid of any excess. It's also good for gluing paper patterns onto jig material and for gluing sandpaper onto dowels for sanding curves. Damp it up a bit and the paper or sandpaper peels right off.

You can use one glue for almost everything but that doesn't mean it is the best choice.

 

For gluing plugs where you don't want to see a glue line I use Lee Valley's fish glue. It stays water soluble forever so a little wipe gets rid of any excess. It's also good for gluing paper patterns onto jig material and for gluing sandpaper onto dowels for sanding curves. Damp it up a bit and the paper or sandpaper peels right off.

Hadn't heard of Fish Glue before. Googled & Youtubed it and found some information (lot of guitar stuff) but not on your use above. Are there any photo's/videos around showing the use of fish glue with plugs? Your other uses I just will have to try

 

Tight bond III I get it by the gallon at about 35.00 vs the pint bottles that are 9.97 X 8 or nearly 80.00 for a gallon. The shelf life is 24 months per their web page. My last gallon lasted about 15 months. It is available at Lowes but not Home Depot by the gallon.

 

Since I switched to Titebond III I would never consider going back to the yellow stuff. Somehow this glue doesn't seem to stain like the yellow stuff, and squeeze-out can be wiped away with a wet rag but missed spots can be chiseled away later, cleanly without leaving a mark.

 

I've used a number of brands (and generics) of yellow glue and haven't noticed any difference between them although I haven't used Titebond III (I and II yes).

 

I understand that fish glue is the strongest of the wood glues used on instruments and fine / thin wood work, but very susceptible to moisture so the joint must never get wet afterwords ( I can't remember where I read that and have no personal experience with it )

 

I use all the differant Titebond wood glues.Each one has a different use.

 

My choice is Titebond II; I'm quite happy with it. Not tried Titebond III, but maybe one day.

Supposedly all of the modern wood glues are about the same, but I still prefer Titebond II.

 

Chuck..
In addition to your fish glue, which works very well, look to Uhu glue sticks...

All Purpose Adhesives - UHU The All Purpose Adhesive, UHU All Purpose Adhesive Twist & Glue, UHU Multi purpose Adhesive Twist & Glue

 

The description reminds me of Duco which is a very good glue in a tube which is popular with traditional archers. We use it to glue feathers to arrow shafts and seal skin to the shelf on our bows where the arrow sits. Lots of other uses too.

 

On the Guitar Building Forums, the only glue to use is Titebond I, because it does not expand, and has been the standard in the industry, other than hide glue for some applications and purists. I stick (no pun intended) with Titebond I, because it does work very well. Just say no to Gorilla Glue of any variety.

 

(as usual) Cherryville Chuck "nailed it" - actually he glued it! If you only need one kind of glue, then you're only doing one kind of project (as far as adhesion goes). I work on a huge variety of projects and use many types of glues - dependant on the individual project's needs. Some glues set too slow, others set too fast, some are instant grip, others are more forgiving, some are water-soluble, others are not. Fish glue is reportedly an extremely good glue for the correct application - but it is not recommended for boats!
If one finds themselves disappointed with glue joints, it is time to work on your skill set and do some homework on differing types of adhesives. Every glue has its draw-backs, and conversely; every glue type has some benefits. This is something that can be tried on scraps and make comparative tests with differing demands. One thing that I have noticed is that some glues create "lubricity" that in some cases becomes problematic unless small part confinement is offered. Also (and I guarantee my friend Cherryville Chuck will agree here) there is the fact that GLUE STARVATION can be as big of a problem as the incorrect glue. With the proper glue, a correctly confined joint is easily possible; and remember: YOU CAN NEVER HAVE TOO MANY CLAMPS.
Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia

 

Every glue has its draw-backs, and conversely; every glue type has some benefits. This is something that can be tried on scraps and make comparative tests with differing demands. One thing that I have noticed is that some glues create "lubricity" that in some cases becomes problematic unless small part confinement is offered. Also (and I guarantee my friend Cherryville Chuck will agree here) there is the fact that GLUE STARVATION can be as big of a problem as the incorrect glue. With the proper glue, a correctly confined joint is easily possible; and remember: YOU CAN NEVER HAVE TOO MANY CLAMPS.
Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia

Thanks Otis. I have a good friend who went out and bought a pile of pipe clamps so he could get more pressure on his glue joints. I had to break the bad news to him. The melamine glue I recommended says on the bottle that a few brad nails is adequate clamping pressure.

I'm glad BJ mentioned hide glue. It was the go-to wood glue until they figured out how to make a liquid glue in a bottle and it fell out of favor. I've seen some very old furniture made with hide glue that had incredible holding power. I tried taking an old cabinet apart once and only got firewood.

Obviously the original question about which glue do you use was a good one but a better one might be what glues do you use for different jobs.

 

Yep, another case of, "What is the best ________?" There are as many answers as there are products and/or responses! For a good, general purpose, wood glue, it is hard to beat TiteBond III. Is it the best answer to every situation? Of course not. It's kind of a Chevy, Ford, Honda, Toyota thing! Or maybe a car, minivan, pickup truck, SUV thing:laugh:

 

What do you guys think of Gorilla Wood Glue? I bought a bought a bottle a couple months back and so far, I am really pleased with it. Just would like some additional input on what others think of it.

Thanks,
Maverick

 

not much...

 

The best exterior glue I've used is the black resorcinol, 2 part, glue. It has the black liquid and powder. I believe it takes approximately 24 hours to cure, but it's worth it. I've laminated strips of wood for curved railings (exterior) many times and I've never had a joint open. I swear by this stuff, just don't get it on your hands, it's a ***** getting off.

 

+1 to Mike (MAFoElffen). Gorilla glue is some amazingly tenacious glue, but PLAN AHEAD, or you may have some serious problems. It has worked quite well for me on the interiors of some of my snake cages, which are built-ins. I think you could use it to stick WD40 to KY Jelly, but there can be surprises if you haven't experimented with it and know what to expect. As Mike has iterated, it can make a joint give you some ugly results!
Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia

 

I guess I got my answer(s) Titebond l, ll, lll along with an occasional dab of Gorilla Glue supplemented occasionally by some epoxy. Now, that too can take on a life of its own - 5 minute? 60 minute? Or??

Anyone up for some library paste?

mmmmmm good, I remember it well

 

Hi

I use all types of glue one type is not good for all types of jobs and I use hot hide glue for some jobs..

Router Forums - View Single Post - Wanted Looking for glue pot

===

 

Gorilla glue and Gorilla wood glue... not the same thing!

I have used it, don't really like it. I bought it at Walmart, may have been old stuff, but has a chalky whiteness that I did not like!

 

I just tried a hot glue last week and I was very impressed. You can put some on a piece of molding, like crown molding, and then press them together. You have about 3-5 seconds to make sure they are lined up and then it is stuck.
Faster is better!

 

Depends.
Titebond III can leave a slight brownish line I'm told when glueing light colored wood.

We used Titebond II for this project (curly maple)