Ok then there's this stuff from Incra . A cheaper alternative but I'm not trying to cheap out really . Just want to do it once , plus I'm thinking with the Kreg that I can use them to secure other things to the table while I'm not routing.

http://www.amazon.ca/INCRA-TTRACKPL...ck-Plus/dp/B00005NMUC/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1431805541&sr=8-21&keywords=Incra



Ok here's the stuff here I think.
http://www.amazon.ca/INCRA-Miter-Ch...Package/dp/B001EYU96Q/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1431805943&sr=8-27&keywords=Incra

 

Ok then there's this stuff from Incra

that's the ticket...

 

Rick; it's Aluminum extrusion...the operative word being 'extrusion'. Every piece you buy will be precisely the same as the last piece. You're over-thinking this.
http://www.tufftooth.com/images/aluminum-t-track.jpg

 

Both of them are nice tracks but one is a t track, that one is mainly used in the Kreg clamping table and the other is a miter slot. Both are usable. I bought a single track that has both from Peachtree for my router table.

 

I got this one for my table and will be installing it fairly soon.

 

Sorry, that's a very annoying website to copy from. It's a Cdn. company...
Google the Co. name , then click on Bandsaw Parts as in the pic below. It's one of those sites where you can see what you want but it doesn't have a specific URL

 

I'll be damned! Same price at Lee Valley...
Veritas® T-Slot Tracks (1/4-20 Thread) - Lee Valley Tools

 

That's almost 1/2 the price as that Incra material at Amazon, Rick. It's just Aluminum extrusion....but I repeat myself.

 

Thanks for the input guys

Dan geez you'd think I'd know this by now but I didn't . That's exactly what I'm looking for , with the T nuts and all .

 

That's a great price on the extrusions at Lee Valley Dan, thanks.

Rick, a salesman at Woodcraft gave me what I think is some good advice. He said to pick one brand and stay with it. Sometimes an attach that works with one manufacturers extrusion, won't fit in a competitors. I do know that the Incra track will also accept standard 1/4 20 bolts with a 7/16" head. Those are a lot cheaper, and easier to find, than T-bolts.

Typically I would just route a T-slot right into the face of a fixture or jig, like I did in the attach on my router fence pieces. But when building something more permanent, I like using the extruded aluminum. They work really well on my drill-press table too!

 

Here in Canada you always check Lee Valley first Rick. It's an unwritten rule, I'm sure of it.

 

here too...

 

Well I found one at leevalley from Kreg . Better than nothing I guess

Kreg® Traksâ„¢ - Lee Valley Tools

 

Ouch, that's about a buck an inch. I guess that with the added versatility and convenience it will bring to your table it's worth it in the long run.

I found this one at Woodpeckers for about half the price. I kind of like the attachment method with this one as well.

 

Ok I found one in Canada , imagine that! Actually I've bought from these guys before and had good results . Debating to buy three and use them to secure the fence down to . Gotta order more stuff as its free shipping over $100 .
Guess I need aluminum track for the fence to so that will help

Woodpeckers Combo Track 32" CT32 | Elite Tools

 

Google is your friend . . . except at 2AM.

Glad you found a better solution Rick, now go build it! It didn't happen if there aren't any PICS!

 

I'm with you there Jeff.
I'm going to order parts today and get this started . Looking forward to building the fence too.
I'm fairly confident I can do a nice job on this build , but the Formica is going to make me a little nervous . Hopefully you can't glue a piece of Formica and end up with an uneven surface ?
Could do melamine but it's to soft IMO . Could be used for replaceable fence faces though I guess

 

"Hopefully you can't glue a piece of Formica and end up with an uneven surface ? "

You bet your sweet bippy you can! To repeat another oldie, 'Plan your work and work your plan'.
It's critical that the laminate goes down like unrolling it...you do not want to trap a bubble, or let any part touch the other side before it's supposed to. *shudders at memory*.

 

tru dat.

But the good news is it's not hard to do it right. Lots of good youtube videos on that topic.

 

Hey Guys I watched a YouTube video on laminating last night and seen some important tips . Use pieces of wood underneith so you can pull them out one at a time as you work from one side to the next .
The guy was using what looked like a paint roller to apply the glue . From memory the contact glue I used I did with a brush which would create inconsistencies ?
what he was using looked a lot thinner and watery than contact cement though

 

Now would this one horse town I call home have white arborite in stock ?
Doubtful lol

 

Ok we have white arborite in town . What's with that? Anyways it's 44 bucks a sheet . Wish they had a damaged sheet I could buy cheaper as I'm only using 1/4 of it . Guess I'll have lots to spare for future tables and fences

Not sure what you guys call it but I'm referring to that stuff they glue on counter tops

 

You can use strips of p-lam instead of wood too. The main thing is get it laid on there and line it up then remove the center strip first then work out from there. When you get it all laid down roll it with a hard rubber laminate roller to make sure you get even distribution of the glue underneath. And roll it from the center towards the edges to not trap any air bubbles like Dan said. You can do it, Rick, once you start don't stop, keep going. Good luck.
Herb

 

Rick; Yes, on the 'laminate' for short. High Pressure Laminate...HPL.
When you order it, they generally ask you if you want 'post forming grade' or 'general purpose'. The GP is a little thicker.
That $44 was for a 4x8 sheet? That's a decent price...I just paid $48 last week for a 4x8 (white also).
Heads up type warning: Do a MAJOR clean up before you start working with it. One small sawdust chip, which you don't notice and which gets sandwiched, will punch right through the laminate when you roll it out.
Beg, borrow, or buy a proper laminate roller! For small pieces you can get away with a block of wood and a mallet, but if you're doing bigger pieces the roller is essential as Herb explained.

 

Wow Dan I never considered the wood chip scenario . Good call ,but major clean up :lol:


Gotta source me a good roller now

 

Yeah, that is the most common mistake a little piece of sawdust looks like a chunk of firewood after the fact and you can't get it out. Sawdust can stick to the back of the sheet too by static e. Or get on the glue roller unnoticed.
Another is a nail head or screw head that doesn't get counter sunk a little more than flush.
How are you rough cutting the sheet? I use a laminate knife that you can get at any hardware store, it is a hook knife with a "v" carbide chip brazed to the tip for cutting along a straightedge. Run a mill file down the cut edge as it is sharp and wear gloves you will be glad you did.
Herb

 

In a pinch you can use a rolling pin. Just don't let her see you using it though...

 

Herb I was going to use my utility knife to scar the laminate . I could certainly invest in the proper one though.
And good point about the gloves

 

Rick,
What are you using for a fence??? You can use 8020 aluminum extrusions in a number of different ways. 1st they have single or double track 1/2" thick, they are made with little barbs that hold
it in the grove without fasteners. I always use glue and screws as well. I use there 1" X 3" extrusion for fences on all my machines. If the machine does not have a good way to hold down a fence I make an L shaped bracket out of wood drill a hole through the short leg of the bracket,
with the fence hanging over both edges meaning it is longer than the table. I then insert bolts in the bottom track on both edges, slip the L shaped block over the bolt and then a threaded knob.
slide the block over with the leg sticking out under the table and tighten it down, repeat on the other end. you then have a fence with a slot on top,, 2 slots on both the front and back.

As far as the laminate goes alot of the information above was very good, you can however make a simple roller with a 1 1/2" or 2" hardwood dowel. the roller normally does not want to be wider than about 3" or you can not apply enough pressure per sq inch.

Lastly if you get a grain of sawdust under the laminate it is not the end of the world. Take a piece of close grain hardwood about 4" square make sure the block has one very smooth straight side. lay it with the smooth side down over the culprit and wack it hard with a hammer
it will either flatten the speck or drive it into the substrate. No one will ever know.

Have a blessed day and enjoy making some dust, Todd

 

Rick,
What are you using for a fence??? Todd

Todd I was going to use wood and melamine for the faces . Never even thought of aluminum , but as soon as the tables built I have to take a good look at options though . Was going to make two, one when your doing horizontal fits and a second tall one for thos odd occasions where you want to have the wood in a vertical position.

 

On cutting the laminate, I used my track saw set at like 3 mm depth (shallowest it can go) and it worked great. And, it was precise - I had an overhang of 1/4" uniformly all the way around. I've also cut it on the table saw with an 80T blade. Works fine too,

 

I actually want a track saw . Was going to get one from Festool but wasn't expecting to do it this soon . Great idea though and I need one anyways

 

Ok going forward l ordered 3 double track channels from Elite tools and a couple single track channels from Woodpecker .
I love the Woodpecker site , just a candy store for router addicts .
So when I was there I bought 4 woodpecker feather boards and a few other things . I didn't want to admit this lol but I cheated and ordered the router plate template as I believe woodpecker and incra are one in the same . I have a template that I made but it needs a little patching so I thought I'd save myself the trouble .
Also at LeeValley I have all sorts of T nuts coming etc .

 

Now you can understand why I built my assembly table with their track.

I love Woodpecker's!!!!:x

 

I think that you should be happy with your choices Rick, and I think that you did the right thing springing for the template. This is one cut that you don't have to do twice! Good luck with the build, and have FUN.
~jeff

 

Guys this table has T channel for securing the fence running all the way to the miter slot ? Is there any benefit to doing it like this ?


Seeing as I'm using dual track for my sides (to secure the fence ) is it ok for me to have my track on the outsides of the table as opposed to going in like they did ?