HI Burke

Elmer's wood glue (milk glue) will dry almost clear I would suggest a new bottle, when it gets older it will turn darker.. but here's a little trick with the clean up, put some bottle water and some white vinegar in a spray bottle in a 50/50 mix, spray it down with the mix and then wipe it all down with clean rag..you will be amazed how well it works.. note don't use the old rag all the time new one for new joints.

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Whenever it's practical, I like to use blue painter's masking tape where glue squeeze-out is likely to appear. Then I can wipe up squeeze-out without worrying about leaving any excess glue behind (only to show up later when applying finish).

 

Hey guys, thanks for the great tips. I'll pick up a new bottle of Elmer's soon and also mix up a spray bottle of 50/50 water & white vinegar. That sounds like the trick, there. I've also got some blue painter's masking tape so I'll try that tip, too.

I'm getting ready to experiment soon with trying my first box joints, and I can just imagine the potential areas of squeeze-out there, so I'm hoping to minimize any glue discoloration on those corner joint areas.

Thanks again,
Burke

 

I use "Weldbond" all the way from Canada, it dries transparent and excess can be chiselled off when dry without leaving a stain or wiped off during glue-up. It also goes off quite quickly and the job can be worked on within the hour, but next day for the full cure. Two pieces lapped and glued will break before the joint.

 

hi Harry i like and use weldbond all the time . I like it cause it drys clear and fast in like a hr. or so you can work with it. I buy local ACE hardware store. The box store had it one time and i bought some in the smallest size to try and it was so good i went back to get more and they didn't carry it any more. Did a research and came up with ace hardware store. I guess it was orginal made to glue car cloth or leather top's to car top's?? any way good glue . do a google search and you will find lot's of places to buy.

 

Just my way, but I always plane the pieces a bit oversized then do the glue up. Once the glue is dry I run it through the planer again until it's just barely oversized. A bit of sanding brings it down to the required dimension, and I have no 'overglue'.
I know I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed, but this has worked for me.:lol:

edit:
If you are going to make box joints, rabbet joints, butt joints or dovetail joints, just use your favorite type of glue, (Mine is Gorilla Wood Glue), and a wet rag to brush off the excess. I still always cut corner joints a bit proud so that I can sand them down and make them flush.

I'm not the best wood worker there is, but so far so good!

 

Thanks for the additional tips, guys.

Speaking of Weldbond and Gorilla Glue, I recently stumbled upon an interesting glue strength comparison on Matthias Wandel's woodworking page. He spoke highly of the WeldBond but did mention some shelf life longevity issues. Although, I suppose if you go through a bottle fairly quickly, this would be a nonissue.

Burke

 

Hey has anyone mixed glue, just wondering if it would be any stronger...I have used many glues but ususally stay with Elmer's or Weldbond...But a lot of times for additional strength I use screws and/or dowels to hide the screw or just plain which can give a different look on some finished projects

 

I can vouch for weldbond drying clear, it's neat stuff.

 

This is interesting: Glue strength testing

Also make sure you look here too: http://woodgears.ca/joint_strength/failures.html

After looking through these glue tests, I might have to switch to Weldbond.

I have been using Titebond II, mostly because it's supposed to be a little resistant to moiature and I can by it at Home Depot/Lowes by the gallon for about $16. I don't think it dries clear but I get really good results by using a small brush to spread a thin layer of glue on both pieces, then wiping with a damp rag after claming. The result is a very narrow bondline and easy cleanup (if needed) with a little finish sanding (I also pre-sand flat pieces to 220 before assy -makes finish sanding a lot easier).

 

This is interesting:

Yes, that's the webpage I was referring to in an earlier post, but I was unable to post it, as I'm still under the "10 post" count currently. Thanks for posting it.

His whole site is full of informative and interesting things.

Burke

 

You didn't say what you were gluing. There are various glues that work best for certain jobs. For general use I ditto the Weldbond. It stays slightly rubbery when dry and I am finding that that produces a superior bond. When under stress the glue will stretch and then return to its original state instead of fracturing.
For gluing things like tapered pugs and mushroom caps I prefer fish glue (I buy it from Lee Valley). It stays 100% water soluble forever so that you can completely wipe off any residue. I also use it for gluing sandpaper onto sanding jigs. It dries in about 2 minutes so that you can hold it in place if you have to. Also good for gluing split grain back down.
Another glue that deserves a mention is melamine glue. I used it to glue some white birch onto 5/8' melamine coated particle board and found I made a measuring error after and had to take them apart. I broke the rabbeted edge off a couple of pieces of the birch. The particle board did not fail first. This glue also stays rubbery and clamping is not recommended so it is good for loose joints. The manufacturer (Franklin) recommends brad nails. I have never found anything better for porous surfaces. The bad news is, it won't come off your hands.
I have also used Titebonds 2 and 3 and polyurethane glues, including Gorilla glue. All are good for the right project. Many choices. Just depends on what you are doing.

 

Here's a nice printable pdf "Glue Guide" by Kreg:
http://www.kregtool.com/files/Newsletters/KregPlus/Images/december11/glue-applications-chart2.pdf