You should NEVER crosscut with the workpiece in contact with the fence. Use a short auxiliary block that the workpiece will be clear of before it contacts the blade. Or better yet yet use a crosscutting sled would be my advice.

 

Yous should NEVER crosscut with the workpiece in contact with the fence. Use a short auxiliary block that the workpiece will be clear of before it contacts the blade. Or better yet yet use a crosscutting sled would be my advice.

I understand and agree with what you have written above, this was pointed out to me by several members earlier. Are you saying that even with long work pieces that are longer tnan the diameter of the blade that crossing cutting them stiill presents a safety issue?

It seem to me that it would be impossilble for the workpiece to bind in such a situation, how is this different than when ripping?

Jerry

 

It may be tougher but not impossible. All you have to do is push the board a bit harder on one side than the other and it will pinch the blade and can kick back regardless of where the leading edge of the board is! The safe way is just don't have the fence in contact with the workpiece, period. You may get away with it 10,000 times, but all it takes is once!

 

Couldn't you say the same thing when ripping?
Jerry

 

When I cross cut I usually utilize the rip fence measuring fence to pre-position the work piece. After positioning the work piece on the cross cut sled with the aid of the rip fence scale, I then loosen the rip saw fence and move it away from the work piece prior to cutting.

The main source of potential kick-back is avoided because the off-cut can't be pinched between the blade and rip fence. Measurement errors are also minimized.

Ben

 

In ripping, the force of kickback would tend to be up and back. Binding a cross cut with a fence would more of a helicopter back at you. I use the technique that DMeadows suggested--auxiliary ahead of the cut, completely clear of it at blade contact. The number of times and sources of that teaching coupled with how much i like ME...not something i'm going to question.

earl

 

Once again, I have been enlightened, the reason that I ask is because I didn't know, now I do, thanks again.

Jerry

 

Now, I would like to know if I am correct on beleving that the issue of binding and kick back is eliminated when the workpiece is long enough so that the leading edge clears the blade before the cut is completed.

Hi Jerry

Yes. That's basically the same principle we use on the short rip saw fence

It seem to me that it would be impossilble for the workpiece to bind in such a situation, how is this different than when ripping?

Unfortunately many American market saws come with a straight-through rip fence - and people don't seem to understand the need to fix an auxilliary short rip fence (which should end with a 5mm or so overlap with the blade) in order to minimize kickback. Where I live the use of that type of rip fence is mandated in trade environments because it is much safer.

Either way you don't want timber hitting the rising blade (i.e. the rear teeth)

Regards

Phil

 

Excellent question!

Consider also, when you're cross-cutting a narrow piece, suppose the cut-off were to split along the grain while it's between blade & fence. Then you'd have a potential projectile regardless of the length of cut. This possibility is almost nonexistent when ripping so you're not likely to be "ready" for it (you can dodge a 100mph projectile, no?).

My advice is not to look for shortcuts where safety is concerned. It's not worth the risk.

 

I just make it a rule that the the fence, the miter gauge, and the blade are never in contact with the work piece at the same time. Miter, blade and work; or fence, blade and work. Never all four.

GCG

 

You do not stand behind the blade. Ever. Because if there IS kickback, you are out of line of it. I learned that when I was about 14. I'm 71 now, and still not had any kickback, because the teacher also told what causes kickback and how to avoid it. Oh yeah, use pushsticks when appropriate.

 

***Very funny but WARNING...'F' bomb dropped a couple of times!***
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Jerry, binding is a combination of length to width and overall length. A narrow piece that is long and narrow can easily bind. A very long piece that is not necessarily very narrow can also bind. The problem comes when the piece starts to angle a bit as it goes through the saw. The problem with that of course is that the distance across opposite corners is longer that the distance from flat to flat. It is very hard to keep long narrow pieces square, especially when they are almost cut off and the cut off is almost on its own. If you have enough bearing surface against the fence to prevent the piece angling as it goes through the saw then it can be cut safely.

I would also suggest that it is a good habit to never have more blade raised than necessary to make the cut. The less blade sticking up the less that is exposed to your hands and fingers.