Contact adhesive

Home Depot will have Weldwood

 

Great stuff , but remember to use plenty of ventilation. Do not let the fumes collect or boom.

 

welcome to the forum, Mike.
if you've never used contact adhesives before, YouTube has some tutorials (taken with a grain of salt).
PRACTICE with similar materials is strongly suggested before moving on to your "good" wood.
read, understand and follow all the application and safety instructions on the can. (no matter what brand you choose).

 

Thanks for the replies, I have used contact cement many times under different circumstances. I glued a vinyl sheet product to a boat floor 19'x7', that was fun, repaired bicycle tubes, patched my work jeans etc.. I have watched you tube and will use your advice and practice on some scrap pieces. Have you laminated recently with formica to plywood? What brand glue did you use?

 

Post #2

Weldwood is what your going to find locally. In commecial we are buying glue 5 gallons a time.

 

Get a J roller to press down. I use the dowel method, starting with the center up/down and out. Last time I just used a spray can of contact cement. It was pretty smooth on both surfaces.

 

Welcome to the forum Mike.

 

Thanks old55, Rebel, what brand and part number for 5 gal glue. Will the small j roller work or should i also have the 7" wide one with handle to lean into? Rebel, John, would you make the face frame a single piece of formica glued to the face frame or pieces of formica with seams where the wood face frame seams are? I"m not sure how a pro would do it. Like your black cabinet the face frame seams would be hidden until you opened a drawer. Or another way? I'm leaning toward all one piece formica. I have a 5'x12' piece of formica on order.

 

I forgot to mention your work is very nice..

 

The DAP Contact Cement pictured in Rebelwork Woodworking's comment is what I use.

I have tried DAP's water-based version with very disappointing results. The water-based version is in a green can.
I have seen the water-based product used by professional installers in the office building I work in. Also with disappointing results. They had to come back and reinstall. The laminate lifted off the surface.

There is a chance the water-based formulation has improved in the last few years. But I doubt it. I always recommend the real stuff over water-based.

 

I guess everyone uses weldwood so that's what I bought (solvent based). Cant find gallon's near by so bought 2 quarts. Bought a 7.5" roller and a 3" roller. Thinned with acetone and got good penetration with paint brush 2 coats and glued a 36"x 21" panel together. It stuck and no bubbles using sticks and working from middle out. Might be in the market for a new trim router.. Looking at dwp611pk or mabe makita rt0701cx3, many don't like bosh fine adjustment? Any thoughts. I have an old craftsman right now. I assume most put a slight chamfer on formica. On the faceframe of the cabinet I will have many inside corners to finish and a router wont do tight 90 degree corners or am i wrong? I think i will need to hand file the inside corners. As of now i am not edge banding could still change my mind as not that far into project. I kinda like natural edge showing plywood laminate layers.

 

+1 for the contact cement.

 

Count me as number 8,476 for any contact cement.

In case you didn't know, you can use a regular iron in spots where the two didn't hold, to weld them back together. Steam mode, without the steam, if I remember, and keep moving. Once it sticks well. put some weight on it, while it cools.