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How to remove carpet tape adhesive

10K views 27 replies 21 participants last post by  Knothead47  
#1 ·
I had to make a new table saw insert today for a dado set.

I used double-sided carpet tape to hold the cast insert to the new hardwood insert.

I used my new 1/2" x 1-1/4" CMT flush-trim router bit and it turned out almost perfect. :D

However, after prying the cast insert off the new insert the adhesive is stuck to the cast. I mean really stuck! (There is a side story about having to unscrew the set screws after finding out they interfered with the router.)

I tried mineral spirits and then lacquer thinner but neither worked.

How do you remove the adhesive? Any tricks of the trade?
 
#2 ·
#3 ·
#5 ·
Goo Gone was not available at my WalMart but they had Goof Off. Claimed to remove adhesive. It didn't. Soaked it for half an hour--didn't do anything more than water! Can't scrap it off.

I wonder if a mild acid would work--like muriatic acid? Would it harm the cast insert?
 
#12 ·
I agree about mechanically removing as much as possible first(single edge razor blades). I would the start over - (and am surprised Goof Off didn't work) - with good denatured alcohol, then through a good solvent like automotive lacquer thinner then maybe top it off as a last resort, finish remover.

A note on both the alcohol and the lacquer thinner found at places like Home Depot. Both contain a fairly high percentage amount of water and oils, especially the thinner which is why I suggest the auto paint version. The HD level stuff is 'good enough' for many projects, just isn't what you would expect for the price. The low end car paint shop stuff is what I use to clean my spray guns and incidental cleanups, while it may be recycled industrial, is still 'cleaner' with very much lower percentage of oils and waters - and works.
 
#15 ·
3M's carpet tape is removed easily with acetone or lacquer thinner. Sometimes a putty knife is necessary to get all the residue.
The difficulty is getting the solvent to the tape, between the pattern and work piece. I just soak it and work it apart gradually with a blade.
Since 3M is all I use, I can't speak to other brands.
 
#16 ·
Goof-Off and Goo-Gone are not the same and I've seen Goo-Gone work where Goof-Off had little or no effect. It's definitely worth a try if you can find some. It's on the shelf at my HD, Lowes, Ace, and TrueValue You can also find it on Amazon. Keep the area moist and gently rub the "goo" till it comes off. The only things I've found so far it won't work on are cured wood glue, super glue and contact cement.

GCG
 
#18 ·
Acetone is the way to go



Doug ~ If mineral spirits and lacquer thinner didn't work, try acetone. Just be sure that you keep it away from anything that is plastic, including paint brushes with nylon bristles. You can dab it on with a paper towel or rag and let it soak and reapply if necessary. Also be aware that acetone is highly volatile which means that you don't want any sparks or heat sources nearby. And take precautions to dispose of your towels/rags properly to avoid breathing the fumes. The use of a putty knife is a good idea also. I don’t recommend muriatic acid :stop: it’s likely to etch into your casting and is very caustic. Good luck :happy:
 
#20 ·
Harbor Freight had a sale on a hot air gun, which I bought to help soften and remove all the adhesive tag they always seem to stick on the best side of the piece. It is a super hot, concentrated hair dryer. Try your wife's hair dryer up close on high setting and see if that helps. I use a chisel to get under the edge first without marring the wood, then a scraper. Solvents as a last resort.
 
#22 ·
I've tried the tape, and I've tried rubber cement, and had such problems removing both that I stopped even trying. Now I just tack my piece to my 1" thick masters with thin nails, about 1 1/4" long. Comes apart very little effor, no clean up, but do have some nail holes, which I am able to hide. Oh, and I drill nail pilot holes in the masters. Works for me.
 
#23 ·
I finally was able to remove the adhesive/tape. Maybe the Goof Off did loosen it up just enough that I was able to lift just enough to grab the edge and pull it up.

I did put the insert in the oven and heat it to 170°--the adhesive seemed to be a little less sticky. Some WD-40 and steel wool and the insert is looking pretty good. I made two more inserts so now I won't have to use the cast insert anymore. I have cut down on the amount of carpet tape I use to just two pieces of about 1.5 square inches each.

Just for the record, I was mistaken when I said I used a flush-trim bit. It actually was a pattern bit. Two-inch blue Styrofoam was my base.

I appreciate all the replies. I now have a lot more ideas to try. I have some MEK and I will buy some acetone just to try it. Never even thought about gasoline! :)