My old table had the three screws to hold the ring style and it worked fine for years. But I always hated changing the rings. Where is my screwdriver, or dang dropped a tiny screw again. This year I upgraded to the Rockler Pro lift with the snap in rings. So simple and fast to change the rings. So far I really like this system.

 

I think plastic works fine for hobby woodworkers, but definitely prefer the twist lock, bayonet style. Too easy to drop a screw into the special spot in every workshop that is a portal to another universe. Kerplunk and it's gone forever.

I haven't tried a magnetic one, but they would be limited to iron tables or plates. They won't stick to plastic or aluminum. I splurged for a Woodpecker extra thick plate, with twist lock inserts. They are plastic, and I got the set with several sizes of openings. It's pretty too.

 

My first router plate was the cheap and now distinct HF which had the snap in which I didn't care for but they worked. I now have the Kreg plate that uses the twist lock method which I like. Ever since a pc type template guide came loose and hit the bit at 15000 rpms I stay away from metal when I have a choice.

 

Ever since a pc type template guide came loose and hit the bit at 15000 rpms I stay away from metal when I have a choice.

That's been my fear of the metal ones, especially the magnetic versions (incra)
I guess I'm just trying to make sure there's not a major flaw with the plastic ones and I'm missing it. I absolutely refuse to deal with the screw down versions.

 

I don't mind "twist lock" rings as long as I can get them with smaller inner apertures too.
I would prefer "zero clearance" rings even with screws than using "twist lock" rings" that have ONLY 25mm, 30mm and 67mm inner aperture only.

 

What do you pass by the bit that would not bridge the smallest gap?

 

Perhaps ask @harrysin why he has zero clearance rings and zero clearance fence.

https://www.routerforums.com/attachments/zero-clearance-discs1-jpg.70848/

 

Well what do YOU use them for?

I'm not saying there isn't a need. I just don't know what it is.

I myself use zero-clearance plates on the table saw for Melamine to reduce chipping. Although I have found the right and sharp blade is more important.

 

Well that was a much better explanation of why you want the zero clearance rings. I don't think the issues warrant all the extra trouble but each to his own.

My next question probably should go on a new thread: Is there any advantages to Horizontal routers that make them worthwhile? Particularly to working tall stock? We don't need one for mortise and tenon as we already have a mortiser and a couple different jigs.

I have considered a horizontal router as a cheap step between our current router tables and shapers.