Hi all. First Post. Have been working wood for a few years and would like some information on Loose Tenon Joinery. Does anyone have any experience with the Mortise Pal? or does anyone know of plans for a simple jig? Thanks in advance!
Fryman
Welcome to the Forum Jeff. It looks like a good jig and the review I just read rates it highly. Lee Valley sells the loose tenon stock or you can make your own with a round over or bull nose bit.
Hi Jeff.
It is fairly simple to make your own.
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/42993-bill-hylton-loose-tenon-mortise-jig.html
Router Joinery Basics: Loose Tenons - YouTube
It is fairly simple to make your own.
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/42993-bill-hylton-loose-tenon-mortise-jig.html
Router Joinery Basics: Loose Tenons - YouTube
Now that we have shown you several ways of making the mortises for floating tenons we should also tell you the best and easiest ways for making floating tenon stock. You should make some of this for each router bit size that you will be using for the mortises and just keep some on hand.
I use my surface planer to accurately make tenon stock in the router bit sizes that I commonly use. If rounded edges are desired to fit the router bit mortises I then cut them using a bull nose router bit of the appropriate size in my router table, but I don't usually bother with this since the strength of a tenon is mostly achieved by the sides of the tenon and glue bond to the sides of the mortise. I just make the tenon length fit the flat parts of the mortise. The 1/2 round hole at the end of the mortise that is left provides a good place for the excess glue to go. When I need floating tenons I just cut this previously prepared tenon stock into the lengths and widths that I need.
Charley
I use my surface planer to accurately make tenon stock in the router bit sizes that I commonly use. If rounded edges are desired to fit the router bit mortises I then cut them using a bull nose router bit of the appropriate size in my router table, but I don't usually bother with this since the strength of a tenon is mostly achieved by the sides of the tenon and glue bond to the sides of the mortise. I just make the tenon length fit the flat parts of the mortise. The 1/2 round hole at the end of the mortise that is left provides a good place for the excess glue to go. When I need floating tenons I just cut this previously prepared tenon stock into the lengths and widths that I need.
Charley
Unless you are a confirmed traditionalist, I would take a look at the Rockler Beadlock Pro. I like it for it's simplicity and speed. The tenon stock is really not that expensive, considering how little you really use. The Pro system is at the end of the video.
BeadLOCK Joinery Kit - YouTube
Beadlock® Pro 3/8" Joinery Kit - Rockler Woodworking Tools
BeadLOCK Joinery Kit - YouTube
Beadlock® Pro 3/8" Joinery Kit - Rockler Woodworking Tools
Here is a review and first test cut joint came out fine of the beadlock pro.
Beadlock Pro - Kreg Jig Owners Community
Beadlock Pro - Kreg Jig Owners Community
The only improvement that I claim for my version Bob is that lengths of wood instead of bearings give far more stability.
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