[JollyRoger]

First the good news I've ALMOST completed the fence (see images below).

Now the bad news - the guy that was coming back off the injured list had his PT extended and that means I'm back on the shift rotation so I'm on nights (5:00PM - 3:00AM) this week.

And that leads to some good news - overtime $$$.

I got the major assembly done. I need to buy a full set of 4 screws for the sliders and drill for the knobs that will secure the horizontal support to the top of the TS fence. I checked for square and using the cheap little protractor I have I'm seeing a little less than 10 minutes out of perpendicular which is identical to what I got with just the TS fence face so I'm happy with that.

Lining up the face screws with the nuts in the t-tracks is a little touchy but that should improve with some practice. Sliding it on with the nuts attached is a total PITA as the nuts want to rotate out of alignment just as they are entering the channel.

Overall I'm happy. Just a few loose ends to clean up and wipe on a few coats of 50/50 poly/mineral spirits and a little wax on the moving parts and I'm FINALLY finished.


Thanks for the encouragement and being patient.

GCG

Patrick,

What did you end up using to fasten the adjustable (sliding) face plates? I was thinking of just using t-nuts... Also, did you glue the mdf pieces together during assembly, or screws?

Thanks!

 

[Dustin B]

Get any time to get the Sketchup File updated yet?

 

[GulfcoastGuy]

Patrick,

What did you end up using to fasten the adjustable (sliding) face plates? I was thinking of just using t-nuts...

Thanks!

Sorry, I didn't see the post. If you mean the front face of the fence that make the clearance for the bit and make up the jointing fence - flat head screws. If you mean the attachment to the fence then T-nuts are the way to go but, to be honest, I leave it mounted most of the time. It just doesn't get in the way of basic saw operations.

Patrick,

Also, did you glue the mdf pieces together during assembly, or screws?

Thanks!

Glue and brad nails

Get any time to get the Sketchup File updated yet?

I haven't forgotten you. I've just had a lot going on and haven't gotten to it yet. My plate's full tomorrow and Wednesday. I'll try to get it done this week though.

GCG

 

[GulfcoastGuy]

Dustin (and anyone else for that matter)

Here's the Sketchup model. Be aware that I used groups not components and a lot of layers to be able to turn things on and off at will. It should be just about right but I can't make a full guarantee. The most important thing is to get the mounting screws lined up with the t-tracks in the TS fence. The slots in the split fence sliders need to line up with them as well to make getting to the mounting screws on the ends easier.

GCG

 

[Dustin B]

Thanks.

 

[pikespeakgtx]

Hello,

My name is Michael. I'm new here. 1st post. My wife Heather, my bernese mountain dog Mitch and I live in Eugene, OR.

I spent 4 hours this AM reverse engineering your entire setup for my ridgid r4510.

Each part is now modeled in Pro-Engineer and I can make files available in Inventor, Solidworks, ProE/Creo, Iges, Step, or STL for anyone.

One item I'm not quite sure on is how the 'fence_face_backer' part fastens to the rest of the assembly?

Do the outside holes in 'fence_face_backer' pass through corresponding clearance holes in 'fence_inside_face' and attach via T nuts to the TS fence?

Also do you know what diameter the rounds are on the Grizzly insert plate. I'd like to update that in my model.


I racked my brain on your setup last night for 2 hours and I couldn't find a single thing that I'd want to change about your setup. Have you found any after using it?

It's really commendable. Job well done. Can't wait to build my own.

 

[pikespeakgtx]

One more picture just cuz...:yes2:

 

[jw2170]

One more picture just cuz...:yes2:

Welcome to the forum, Michael.

 

[GulfcoastGuy]

Hello,

My name is Michael. I'm new here. 1st post. My wife Heather, my bernese mountain dog Mitch and I live in Eugene, OR.

Welcome

I spent 4 hours this AM reverse engineering your entire setup for my ridgid r4510.

Wow ... industrious.

Each part is now modeled in Pro-Engineer and I can make files available in Inventor, Solidworks, ProE/Creo, Iges, Step, or STL for anyone.

Ok ... I think you may have slipped right past industrious but ... if you're willing ...

One item I'm not quite sure on is how the 'fence_face_backer' part fastens to the rest of the assembly?

Do the outside holes in 'fence_face_backer' pass through corresponding clearance holes in 'fence_inside_face' and attach via T nuts to the TS fence?

That's right and there are four knobs going to the top t-tracks for top support. The slots for the split fence are cut just long enough to allow access to the outer flathead screws when open fully. The one in the center is in the back of the bit clearance/vacuum plenum cavity.

Also do you know what diameter the rounds are on the Grizzly insert plate. I'd like to update that in my model.

Don't know right off but I'll check and get back to you.

I racked my brain on your setup last night for 2 hours and I couldn't find a single thing that I'd want to change about your setup. Have you found any after using it?

So far I like it. I've done some jointing with the spacers I made and setting up a zero clearance insert worked out very well. Really can't complain. Haven't used the top T-track yet but, hey, who knows.

It's really commendable. Job well done. Can't wait to build my own.

Thanks and glad I could help you out. Be sure to post a pic or two of your progress.

GCG

 

[pikespeakgtx]

Well I got the aluminum angle frame material from home depot last night.

qty (1) 48" long 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 stick $9.27
qty (1) 48" long 3/4" x 1/2" x 1/16" stick. $5.67

Cut the 2 lateral sections to 22" length and used red sharpie and my calipers to scribe the lines of the notches at the ends of the long peices. The width of the channel in the extrusion on the table saw was ~.473 so I made the notches @ .470 x .500

I was able to hit .4700, .4700, .4690, .4695 not bad for a table saw. The frame has next to none up and down play and about .020" side to side play which is fine. I love the micro-just feature on the ridgid fence for making slight adjustments.

Then I cut the 4 longitudnal section to 10.063 and hit those within +/-.002

I'll still need to notch 2 of the longitudnal sections for the opening where the insert fits.

I picked up a set of Kreg router table insert levelers from Woodcrafters last night too.

I found a company locally that sells 3/4 MDF with a phenolic laminate that sells a 4x8 sheet for $60. I'm going to use this to make the router table and probably much of the fence as well.

I want the thickness of the table to turn out 1.3125 so I'll glue the mdf faces of the .75 phenolic mdf together but first run one of the peices through a planer and a timesaver and remove 3/16 off of the mdf face so my thickness comes out right.

That's the plan for now. I will visit the vendor tommorow on my lunch hour with a set of calipers and see how true to .750 their 3/4 phenoic mdf actually is. I measured Home depot's 1/2 and 3/4 MDF and both were within .010 of nominal.

 

[pikespeakgtx]

went to the wood supplier last night and he was talking about a reso backed mdf which is totally not going to work.

I'm now talking to a couple plastic suppliers to make a one peice the table out of garolite in a paper grade XX phenolic in 1 or 1.25" thickness.

I'm also talking to a treadmill supplier about getting a MDF board with a high pressure laminated phenolic top on it in .75 thickness and then bonding/screwing .5 mdf to the bottom of that as a secondary option.

I'm also not certain I'm going to use the kreg plate levelers because one side has not enough room so two of the levelers will have to modified to work.

 

[Dmeadows]

went to the wood supplier last night and he was talking about a reso backed mdf which is totally not going to work.

I'm now talking to a couple plastic suppliers to make a one peice the table out of garolite in a paper grade XX phenolic in 1 or 1.25" thickness.

I'm also talking to a treadmill supplier about getting a MDF board with a high pressure laminated phenolic top on it in .75 thickness and then bonding/screwing .5 mdf to the bottom of that as a secondary option.

I'm also not certain I'm going to use the kreg plate levelers because one side has not enough room so two of the levelers will have to modified to work.

I have a whole stack of treadmill boards. That stuff generally is not at all durable. The wax or silicon lube(depending on brand) is all that keeps the very thin lining from coming off! Some of it is like a self adhesive stick-on type stuff. I use it for jigs and the like, but not for a router table top!

 

[pikespeakgtx]

I have a whole stack of treadmill boards. That stuff generally is not at all durable. The wax or silicon lube(depending on brand) is all that keeps the very thin lining from coming off! Some of it is like a self adhesive stick-on type stuff. I use it for jigs and the like, but not for a router table top!

Oh really? I've never had any in my hand to look at. It looked in the pics like it was a 1/16 phenolic sheet laminated on both sides. Thanks for the heads up!

It looks like I'm in for the solid 1 piece paper phenolic... For a 12x24x1 inch sheet it's about $40. Seems like the way to go to me.

From what I've seen in my limited experience, the solid phenolic tops come on the high end router tables.

I was reading about a guy who has had really good results with a Corian top. I was also reading about compact grade laminates in 1" thickness. That stuff looks great too but don't know where to find it locally.

 

[GulfcoastGuy]

OK ... you're going beyond the melamine/MDF open faced sandwich. I like the Corian idea, too. I went low budget 'cause I still had other purchases to consider.

Looks like you've got the angle part down.

Keep posting progress ... I'm curious to see how this works out for someone else.


{Off Subject Alert:}
BTW ... if you'll look under the main table in the back corners you'll see two pair of cylindrical hard points. The pair on the table extension side is adjacent to an access through the back of the plastic base. I checked and it looks like it would take a 1/4-20 tap or close. If so I'm thinking outfeed support. I've already got a cantilevered table design rumbling around my noggin. Take a look and see what you think.

GCG

 

[GulfcoastGuy]

You should be able to drill and tap either the Phenolic or the Corian. That would allow you to put the table levelers in the table as hex key grub screws accessible from the top which sounds like a cleaner solution than drilling and taping the longitudinal angles as I did.

GCG

 

[pikespeakgtx]

You should be able to drill and tap either the Phenolic or the Corian. That would allow you to put the table levelers in the table as hex key grub screws accessible from the top which sounds like a cleaner solution than drilling and taping the longitudinal angles as I did.

GCG

That's a great idea to use set screw levelers tapped into the plate instead of the longitudinal angles. Still going to drill/tap the longitudinal angles to accept a lock down screw. Use the same style of levelers the insert uses (attached photo), where you have a set screw leveler and a flat head lock down screw from the top of the plate, so you can be sure this setup stays put when you put the table up in the folded position.

I too am space conscious. lately I've been doing table saw work in the kitchen hallway, with my wife's blessing:thank_you2:

I found some other post you made on Ask.com, I think, where a another guy asked if theres any router tables commercially available for the r4510.

Also wanted to mention I adjusted the sliding portion of the table to the same height as the stationary portion of the table by cracking loose the 10mm head screws in the picture and tapping until it's flush with a hammer handle and then snugging the 10's back down. There's 2 per side. It was off by about a 1/16 before.

{Off Subject Alert:}

I see the points you mean. It looks to me like they are for a M6-1.0mm thread. So it should also accept 1/4-20.
Also there are also a great number of ejector pin locations used to remove the casting from the mold base during manufacturing that would serve as great places to drill/tap.
Install studs for so you could slip a cantilevered outfeed table to it.

Trying to wrap my head around dealing with the cyl posts that are hidden under the plastic of the saw. probably work through the small slot to the left of the dust port slot with a custom offset aluminum bracket. a lightweight portable fold up out feed table would be really nice to have.

 

[pikespeakgtx]

Okay... Received the Rockler Lift fx today and finished modeling the phenolic insert.
The fancy rockler tables are 3/4" phenolic so 1" should be plenty. That's $40. I'm debating doing the machining myself or farming it out to a local CNC shop.


The lift fx is narrower than the other static plates which allows a combo miter/t slot track on the table. Plus the opening is offset to one side allowing more usable space on the table. I haven't modeled the Bosch 1617 Router yet to see if everything is 100% happy and has its own place in live. Custom builds like this, there's always trade offs when things want to live inside one another.


I ditched the Kreg levelers in favor of tapped holes with grub screws with flat head lock down screws.


That's about all for now just more pictures to look at.

 

[GulfcoastGuy]

I can confirm the points you correctly ID'd in post #76 - images 4 & 5 will tap to 1/4-20. I just finished two tonight and have a good 1/2" of 85% tread. My only fear is the hard points to the right are offset linearly from the access through the case. This could create a moment of inertia that could conceivably lead to failure of the hard point. I'm playing out solutions in my head (support outriggers tops on the list, so far).

Back on the router table insert. I noticed you're going for a miter/t-track combo. Then I checked the dims of Rockler Lift FX and noticed you get an extra 3/4" in width and 1/4" in length to work with. Nice, I'm still working out using the lone t-track in mine to make a usable coping sled.

Nice work so far. Keep the updates coming.

GCG

 

[pikespeakgtx]

Anyone know if the kreg phenolic insert rings will fit these rockler plates?

The injection molded ring that is supplied has only 3 screws on 120 degree pitch. The ring is warped and worthless. I can't believe it passed QC and got packaged for sale. The darn thing will just about jump off a flat table.

The 3/8 aluminum plate is machined very well. The counter bore depth of the ring opening is .125 on the nose.

I'm calling rockler tech support tommorow morning and will find a solution. The one in the pictures shows a 6 hole pattern on 60 degrees. The plate is tapped 6x. So if i have to run an injection molded part, it better have 6 holes in it.

 

[pikespeakgtx]

I agree about the moment there. The outer post will have the highest tensile load and there will definately be torque happening there with that offset. Would be best to use a 4 legged table and use brackets off the hard posts to locate the outfeed table and secure it only...no load bearing.

But my gut tells me you'd be alright with a two legged outfeed table if you bottom tap the holes and get the bolts in there deep... as close as comfortable to not break thru into the table top. But my mind doesnt want to find out.

You need a third pickup point... To resist the moment... I'd suggest usingt the existing mount that the table bolts to the plastic with by using a longer bolt and a spacer bushing.