Corey,

Looks like a great router at a great price. If I find I need to add another router at some point, I'll have to take a hard look at this one.

BTW..... do you think the name tag and serial number can be removed?

 

I gave a small review on just the motor in the table mounted router forum the other day. The router is very strong and smooth. I liked it so much that I went out and bought another one for hand help operation. I used it yesterday on my new Porter Cable dovetail jig and I was quite impressed with it. The only thing I have to get used to is the soft start. It takes longer to come up to speed then the other routers I have with soft start. Sears has the fixed base on sale for $70. I don't know how the longevity is going to be but so far I am very impressed.

 

Corey,

Looks like a great router at a great price. If I find I need to add another router at some point, I'll have to take a hard look at this one.

BTW..... do you think the name tag and serial number can be removed?

Bob, Bob Bob..... what are we going to do with you!

Corey

 

Hi Ray

You may also want to read the 2 links below ▼

http://www.routerforums.com/39447-post21.html
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/4063-model-320-17542-table-routing.html


Bj

I gave a small review on just the motor in the table mounted router forum the other day. The router is very strong and smooth. I liked it so much that I went out and bought another one for hand help operation. I used it yesterday on my new Porter Cable dovetail jig and I was quite impressed with it. The only thing I have to get used to is the soft start. It takes longer to come up to speed then the other routers I have with soft start. Sears has the fixed base on sale for $70. I don't know how the longevity is going to be but so far I am very impressed.

 

Hi Ray

You may also want to read the 2 links below ▼

http://www.routerforums.com/39447-post21.html
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/4063-model-320-17542-table-routing.html


Bj

Damn BJ, I forgot you did that very complete review. Sorry about that. Oh well it's good to know others outside this forum think it's a good'n as well though. Seems like Craftsman can put together a decent product when they want too! The band saws are nice and they have some decent table saws again.

Corey

 

Hey BJ,

It was actually thoses two reviews that swayed me to get one when I realized that the router I had wouldn't work with the lift I bought. LIke I siad, I liked it so much that I wanted to say how well it worked using it freehand so I bought another one. I didn't need the plunge base as I have the DeWalt three base set but I have been using the Sears just to see how it holds up and it has a nice balance to it.

I posted my reviews so people could see that there really was something to this router since you and a few people have had sucess with it to.

I will continue to post updates as I have quite a bit more cabinets and projects to complete.

 

Hi Ray

Thanks and please do,,
I'm also sold on the router and I have two of them also my son was thinking about getting a new one or two for work (Car Toys ) and it took a hard look at it today and it looks like they have sold 4 more to him and Car Toys , they have two big 3HP Porter Cable and the guys have put them to hell and back a time or too...
and I told him the Sears will back it up like they do on all the tools they sale...

It like the fac that they could use a standard drop cord with it because it only pulls 11amps. at full draw...


Bj

 

who make's those routers for sears I don't belive they make them I belive all sears does is make money ? just wondering thanks del

 

We see features from Ridgid and PC on these routers, not sure who is building them. For the price it doesn't really matter.

 

Just as a side note ***

At one time I sold Craftsman hand tools and Snap-On hand tools and a buddy was down at CF & I steel and they where making Craftsman tools and Snap-On tools the same day and the steel they used was the same for both just a diff. mold, my buddy said the Q.C. for the Snap-On was better,, they would kick out 3 or 4 out of 10 for the Snap-On and maybe one for the Craftsman out of 10,,,but the same steel in both brand names.....so to say it maybe the same thing for this new Craftsman router..

Bj

 

I agree as above that it doesn't really matter who is making it for them but I believe it is Black and Decker. This looks a lot like some of the pieces from Porter Cable. The Ridgid looks almost identical to the Ryobi as far as the raising mechanism on the fixed base version. To me the only similarity to the Ridgid is the LED lighting.

 

Hi,

I'm new to the forum & new to woodworking. I have always seen the great things one can to with a router & finally purchased my first routher this week. I got the Craftsman 17543 combo talked about here. Glad to see it's a respectable unit.

I finally took it out of the box tonight. Read the instructions & tried to use my first bit. Came across a few questions. Maybe someone can clear things up.

1. Instructions say to loosen collet/nut & put cutter bit shank in. When I did that with the collet/nut that was delivered on the router....it would not tighten on the shank. I bought the Craftsman 30 bit set & used the 1/2 in. bead & cove. I looked in the book & didn't see anything about the other collet included in the box. I assume that was the 1/4 inch & since I was using the 1/2 bit, didn't need it. I changed it out & it close tightly. Guess first question would be......was the collet delivered the 1/2 collet & why didn't my 1/2 in. bead & cove not fit?

2. The 1/2in bead & cove is larger than 1 1/4 in diameter. I was going to ask this question...but I see on 13 of page 12, the sub-base will not allow anything larger than 1 1/4 inches. Can I not use these large bits? Can the sub-base be removed? Is that advisible? Can I only use large bits on a router table when the base is not used?

Anyway....didn't want to do anything stupid, decided to step back, grab a beer, re-read the manual & try again tomorrow. In the mean time....I came across your forum.

Thanks to everyone who contributes & makes these forums so informative.

CMan

 

Cman, a bunch of the guys here have bought this unit and love it. I got the non VS one last night with just the plunge base. DIdn't realize it was just a single speed but I have another Dewalt 2 base combo that I use as well. This router has a smoother plunge than my dewalt... My Dewalt still is the most comfortable router I have used, but I like the features and bang for the buck with the new Craftsmans. Enjoy your new router!

Corey

 

Hi CMan

The Craftsman combo comes with the 1/4" and the 1/2" collet nuts,,,because the router is new take the nut all the way off the router and place in the bit you want to use, push the bit in the but just so the base of the bit comes out of the botton of the collet nut then screw it back on the router then crank it down.besure to push in the lock pin.

They don't want you to use any bit over 1 1/4" in dia. in the plunge base/standard base, that's alot of steel spining below the base BUT you can make a new base plate quick and easy with some 1/4" plastic that will let you use bigger bits but don't go over 2",,that's say put a 2 1/2" hole in the new base plate..use the base plate that came with the router to get the lay out for the center hole and the mounting screws.

It's best to use a router table for any thing that's over 2" dia.


Bj

 

Guess first question would be......was the collet delivered the 1/2 collet & why didn't my 1/2 in. bead & cove not fit?

Hi CMan, The 1/2" most likely refers to the radius of the cove and bead cut that the bit produces. Most suppliers have bits like that with either 1/4" or 1/2" collets.

 

Rusty, you are correct. After looking the bit set over more closely, appears the 30 bit set sold by Craftsman is 1/4" shank. When I saw the 1/4 & 1/2 on the bits, I thought that was the shank size. The shank is 1/4" & the size listed by the bit is the size of the cut.

I'm learning new stuff already. That also explains why the bit would not fit the first time I tried. The 1/2" collet was installed in the unit & I tried to put a 1/4" shank bit in the collet. It's all coming together now.

Thanks for the input. I may get a piece of wood routed tonight.

 

Got into my shop (garage) today & played a little more with the Craftsman router. Since I'm new to everything, everything I do is a learning experience. As mentioned before, the Craftsman sub-base only has a 1 1/4" hole & cannot use bits greater in diameter than 1 1/4".

I took bobj3's advice & decided to make my own sub-base. I bought a sheet of acrylic at the depot & began to make a new sub-base. Wasn't anything I'd brag about but it's functional. Since I didn't have counter sink drill bits, I picked up a set of those & a new set of jigsaw blades. I cut a square out of the acrylic & drilled a hole in the center & tried to make a circle with the jigsaw. I found the acrylic a little difficult to work with. As the bits & blade warm, the acrylic stuck. After using sandpaper, a dremel & a drill bit to somewhat round out the center, I was able to get it onto the base. Like I said...not pretty but functional.

So at the end of the day, I have a few new items in my tool box & new sub-base for my router. I would like to do a better job cutting & fitting when using acrylic. Does anyone have any suggestions, tips or expertise dealing with acrylics.

Thanks again,
CMan

 

Hi Cman

acrylics = slow and easy, in and out of the cut let it cool down and then back to cutting it....need to whatch the end of the cut don't force it or it will crack out on the bottom side...ABS works better for base plates...
If you have a scroll saw it works great for cutting all types of plastic....and number 5 blade works well...

Bj


==========

 

Thanks Bob. I bought a Bosch T101A blade which is supposed to be good for plexiglass. Where can I buy ABS? I searched the Depot & Lowes & don't get a hit on ABS. Is it know by another name?

 

Hi Cman

Plastic supply company in your town,, most have cut offs cheap...

The Bosch T101A blade is a great blade but not for plastic, it cuts to wide of a slot.plus it's hard to keep it on the track of the cir.line...I know you will think I'm nuts but if all you have is a jig saw use a metal blade in your jig saw....but b/4 you use it get a cup of water and take the blade to the grinding wheel and take alot of the back side of the blade off so it can turn on a dime...get one or two of the cheap blades to rework them...but you must keep the blade cool to the touch..

ABS below and other types

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/6678-40mm-guides-templates-more-6981.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/6669-40mm-guides-templates-more-6965.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/5232-40mm-guides-templates-more.html


CraftsMan router with new ABS base plate,this one is a old mouse pad I had in the computer room.. about 8" in dia.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/guide-bushings-templates/7049-harry-tom-bobj-others-7139.jpg


Just a tip how to remove the back side of the metal blade and keep it cool ,two hardwood blocks, use a pair of vise grips, soke the wood and then grind away, put it back in the water from time to time,,to keep it cool...the wood will act like a heat sink....

=============

Thanks Bob. I bought a Bosch T101A blade which is supposed to be good for plexiglass. Where can I buy ABS? I searched the Depot & Lowes & don't get a hit on ABS. Is it know by another name?

 

What about the new "professional" version at 12.5 amps and 2.25 hp? It has the same speed ratings of 12K - 25K. What I wonder is if 12K is slow enough for a low speed where some others in this class go as slow as 8K. Maybe it doesn't matter because you shouldn't really be throwing 3+" bits around with only 2.25 hp?

 

What about the new "professional" version at 12.5 amps and 2.25 hp? It has the same speed ratings of 12K - 25K. What I wonder is if 12K is slow enough for a low speed where some others in this class go as slow as 8K. Maybe it doesn't matter because you shouldn't really be throwing 3+" bits around with only 2.25 hp?

It's basically the same design router I think. The combo is a better value with the fixed and plunge base I think. Your right, on a regular basis you shouldn't be slinging those big bits like that.

Oh.. and welcome to the forums Bsee! Glad to have you here!

Corey

 

Hi Guys

I'm not to sure what came 1st. the 3 1/2" bits or the 3 1/4HP routers to turn them.
I think it was the bits maybe 3"


I have used a 1 1/2 HP/1 3/4HP PC routers to spin them for a long time...it just can't do the job in one pass like the 3 1/4HP can do...

Most of the new routers come with a speed control built in and you can't use the after market router speed control on them ,12,ooo rpm is a bit fast but if you have the guts well..just a note about speed of a router(s), I have a RPM tack and I do check the speed of the routers from time to time and most turn less than what it's marked on the router..( speed control )

Talking about speed most drill press tools turn less than what they are marked as well...off by 15 to 20% then norm...(lower than taged )


==========

 

Thanks for the welcome. I've been lurking a while. I've had my heart mostly set on the DeWalt three base kit and have just been waiting for a good sale to come around, like the $50 rebate. I almost picked up the Craftsman 26620 two base kit on closeout and I have been looking at the new "Pro" kit as well. I can't say that the D-handle feels as comfy as the DeWalt version and the cord was kind of tight, but it looks like a good value. I will look at the tools more closely again in the next day or two and maybe make a decision. If the D-handle doesn't feel good in the hand, the kit is a waste of money.

My suspicion is that these new motors don't have the torque to run well at 8K for whatever reason. Maybe the old ones weren't so effective at that speed either so they just tweaked it, I don't know.

 

BJ I too have used 1 1/2 HP router to swing some big bits and they were 1/4 shanks. I made some cabinet doors for a hutch I made sometime ago. No panel raising but rail and stiles... but it scared the yoohoo out of me but I got it done.

Bsee- I have the Dewalt DW 618 router. I really like it and have been able to compare it to the Craftsman. The Dewalt due to it's low center of gravity is the most compact and comfortable router I have used. I really like it but I do not have the D-handle. Just the fixed and plunge bases. I also like how the cord attaches and detatches on the Dewalt. The new Craftsman does not have the low center of gravity but is lighter and I also noticed that it has the smoothest plunge of any of my routers. The Cman has a good DC chute with it like the Dewalt and the Craftsman has a neat feature with the LED work lights and they work!

If you really like the Dewalt and you can swing it I would opt for it and you can always get the Craftsman as a back up later. I have found with my operations that have several routers available really helps in set up etc. when you only have so much time and I have different routers set up with different base plates to allow specific jobs.

Good luck!

Corey