Lauren,

This is NOT a field of expertise for me, but if I'm making an accurate mental image of your situation; could you possibly use a heat-sensitive glue to hold-down the positive to the waste - then later remove the veneer with heat? I am NOT saying this would work, but rather "thinking out loud". I'll be curious what you find that works.

On somewhat similar situations with hand-held routers, I have been guilty of running screws thru "soon to be voids" in things like that and after the perimeter has been machined, create the (very simple) void with a scroll saw or something delicate. What I am uncertain of is if the screw's head would impair your X-Y travel path? You wouldn't want to hit a bit atop of a screw head. Good luck!

 

Oh yeah! First before my reply I should have welcomed you into this group. It is a lot of fun! There are thousands of us here willing to help and/or share experiences.

 

Welcome to the forum Lauren. First thing I would try is a heat gun to soften the glue on the tape. This would be the fastest and easiest if it works. I would try to slide a putty knife between the tape and the veneer and gently lift as the putty knife separates the bond. Second, I would try gluing the veneer to paper, and then gluing the paper down using Lee Valley's fish glue. It stays 100% water soluble forever and you would only need to dampen the paper layer to get the glue to release.

 

Hi Lauren, welcome to the forum.

 

Actually, I think Chuck's idea is better than mine. I've been hearing some good things about that fish glue, but having never personally used it - didn't even think about it!

 

I know from experience that 3M General Purpose Spray Adhesive will release with water. I tried it with the wet/dry sandpaper I use to sharpen chisels. As soon as it got wet the paper was sliding around. You can get it at Amazon although I got mine from HD.

 

Try using veneer tape. It's water soluble adhesive will release easier. Local Woodcraft or Rockler sell it

 

Thanks for all the responses! I'm a lot less worried about the project with so many good ideas. I did a test yesterday with some 12"-wide low-adhesive masking tape used for making vinyl signs, which just held my whole piece of veneer down on the table. I had to catch the pieces I cut out before they strayed into the bit, but otherwise it seemed to work well. But I think some of these suggestions will work better on a large scale.
Thanks for the warm welcome!

 

Hi Lauren,
Welcome to the router forums.

I use double sided tape to bond the veneer to a spoil board. After the parts are cut I use mineral spirits to release the adhesive from the parts, alcohol also works.

 

Hi Lauren

You could always try traditional animal hide glue which will unbond from the spoilboard by applying gentle heat from a clothes iron through a cotton cloth. Allternatively there's the old wood turners trick - glue a layer of brown kraft paper onto your spoilboard with animal hide glue, then attach the veneer to the top of that with the same glue and make the cuts. When done a sharp thin chisel through the kraft paper should part the veneer from the spoilboard. Nice thing about traditional hide glue is that it unsticks with gentle heat or water.

Regards

Phil

 

Welcome. Interesting. I've always thought the preferred way of cutting veneer is by using an Xacto knife along with a steel square. I've never run across any references to cutting it any other way. Xacto knife would certainly be faster.

 

These gluing options sound like a good bet, too. JOAT, I'm using a CNC Router to cut the veneer because it is a complex design with curves and letters, all of which already exist in digital form. In this case I don't believe an exacto and straight edge would be as fast or precise. Again, thanks for the suggestions and welcome everyone.

 

Maybe you have a friend with a laser, they work great for cutting out thin veneers because the kirf is tiny (about .008") and there is no tool pressure.

 

Hope the following answer could solve your problem.
How to fix PCB on CNC router working table?
Are you a PCB workshop owner? How you fix PCB on CNC router working table? By twin adhensive? by clamp? After using adhensive, it is rather not eady to remove the adhensive, right? Well, if you use clamp, and
when the PCB size is not small, then the middle section of PCB may can not fixed tightly, and cause lower resolution?
Today, OMNI suggest a good solution for PCB processing. We use No.67 spray adhensive with 3M brand.
1. Clean the dust from PCB back and working table. Then spray out the No.67 adhensive to PCB back and leave the PCB for several min.
2. Ensure working table is even, put PCB on table, start engraving and drilling.
3. NO.67 adhensive can be used repeatly for several days. So for next PCB, then still use it. If the back of PCB is with a little adhensive after processed by router cnc, then use 3M orange detergent to clean it.

 

I have cut some with a drag knife that I got from Widgetworks unlimited.

 

Mineral spirits will generally release the glue on tape. It will not affect the veneer at all after it is dry.