Hello and welcome to the router forum
I prefer a split fence my vacuum cleaner is set up to the backside to clear the sawdust trouble with the solid fence it is hard to figure out a way to extract the sawdust and I always can attach a solid fence to it
Most the work I do is edge work and if you are working the center of work piece there really no way to attach a vacuum cleaner, like a dado sawdust follows
the groove

 

G'day and welcome to the router forum.
Why not clamp a sacrificial mdf board to the front of the split fence.
Dust collection, in any way, is very important in any workshop. I work outdoors, so not an issue for me, so I use a solid fence.

 

When you describe the process of using a sacrificial zero clearance 1/4" piece of MDF the only differencesI see are creating the sacrificial fence for each different bit instead of closing the split fence to meet the bit. It is quicker to adjust a split fence and there is plenty of suction for dust collection as well. Besides not being able to use the fence for a jointer with a straight fence I see it as a personal preference.

 

Welcome to the forum Gerry.

 

Hi Gerry and welcome. I prefer a split fence with “zero clearance “ inserts.

 

Here's a diagram of a nice split fence. I have a commercial split fence, but this one is easily as good. Dust collection behind the fence. You can always set up a high solid fence for end cuts. If you make our own, you must tune up your table saw so that those triangular pieces are a perfect 90.

 

Guys,
Thanks for all the helpful advice-I'm going with a split fence design, and using zero clearance disposable sacrificial overlays of 1/4" material when needed (not always).

DesertRatTom-I'm actually designing my split fence to almost exactly look like your diagram-thanks for sharing. Modifying it slightly to eliminate the lucite safety shield because I typically use an L-shaped wooden bit guard clamped to the fence, or a featherboard clamped to the fence to keep my hands away from the bit. Won't have any problem cutting exact 90 degrees on the support pieces, since my SCMS is tuned up to cut very accurate angles.

I'll try to remember to post pics of the fence here when I have it finished.

Appreciate everyone's input.
Gerry

 

Adjustable fence for the win! Being able to optimize dust collection for each bit is great.

 

Hi @dwardio, my brother is a retired physics professor, a math maven and worked for many years at JPL He worked there on a number of missions, especially on the imaging systems. We have an ongoing discussion going on the origin of the universe, and he is working on questioning the basic model of the hydrogen atom. I bet you two would get along well. He also taught computer science, programming,and related topics. A little off topic, but I get the sense you are another guy who just likes to know stuff.

 

I have a split fence that came with my MLCS C.I. table saw extension. With the split fence installed, a warped backing rail can cause the work to hang up after it passes the bit, and the two halves to not be parallel. I like the design Tom presented. I'd be inclined to built it with countersunk screw clearance so I could joint all the support points after assembly.

 

One addition you might consider is sections of t-tract embedded into the faces of the fence. I'm often routing blind slots, and have moveable end stops I can place anywhere along the track to stop/start the board when the slot is at the end or beginning where I want it. Very useful for repeated cuts. You can also fasten feather boards to the track, bit guards, etc..
4D

 

Another use for a split fence is support for cleaning the edge of your work. The shim (and cut) is greatly exaggerated in the sketch. Some people use playing cards. To set it up, hold a straight edge against the 'OUT' side and adjust to the high spots of the bit.

 

Last bit of advice I'll share, is to check that a split fence is easy to set perfectly inline after you've offset it for a cut.
Best excuse is so you can vary the width of the opening for the bit being used.

 

You’ll like a split fence when you edge like a jointer , but may prefer a single fence for many applications. Router fences are cheap, have both options..

 

Rebel is right on. Fences ARE cheap to make, and I would add that you might also want a fixed fence that is tall, 12 inches for example. Makes working on the ends of pieces easier and other special applications, such as using a tall bit to mill picture frame stock.

 

G'day from Australia, and welcome to the forum, @Skylar Roberts ,,,